Bedazzling jewel of Bordeaux is a city steeped in history and a real hidden gem
SUNLIGHT is bouncing off sandstone facades and the buildings practically glow.
It’s my first morning in Bordeaux and I’m already blinded by its beauty — and slightly baffled.
As I reach for my sunglasses, luckily our tour guide Bruno is on hand to explain this bizarre phenomenon.
He says: “Sandstone takes the light of the day. If the sun shines, it looks blonde.
“That’s why Bordeaux is called la ville blonde — the Blonde City.”
Bordeaux has also long been known by another name, France’s Sleeping Beauty, as the south-western port city is often overlooked in favour of Paris or other major cities.
These days Bordeaux is wide awake and the vibrant, bustling city has so much more to offer than just being the wine capital of the world.
It has undergone a big transformation over recent years — starting with a painstaking clean-up of its honey-coloured facades that had become blackened by centuries of grime and pollution.
Bordeaux had become so choked with traffic that sitting outside in one of the squares wasn’t exactly an inviting prospect so cars were banned from the historic centre.
The city’s first tram, linking up all the major areas, was introduced. Now with a network spanning 30 miles, tourists can use a CityPass, which can not only be used on public transport but also gives access to monuments and museums.
A pretty walkway lined with trees, restaurants and cafes now runs alongside the River Garonne, which was previously cut off to pedestrians by a fence surrounding the port.
The regeneration project has transformed Bordeaux into a thriving metropolis, but one that still honours its majestic neo-classical architecture.
As we meander around the old town, Bruno orders us to “keep your eyes sharp”.
He continues: “Every building has a surprise. Bordeaux is not a city that reveals itself straight away. It’s a teasing city. It’s all part of the seduction.”
Bordeaux is not a city that reveals itself straight away. It’s a teasing city
But the centre of the city is actually the port and Bordeaux was made to be seen from the water.
“When a visitor came by boat he had to be impressed,” Bruno says.
And what better way to take in the Unesco-listed sights than on a lunch cruise along the river.
And the Fountain of Three Graces in the city’s Place de la Bourse, is certainly eye-catching. The sculpture caused quite a stir when it was built in the 19th Century as it was said to be inspired by three Queens — including Queen Victoria.
And as I look up at the svelte naked figures, it’s fair to say there may have been some artistic licence. You can also see the city’s skyline reflected back in the nearby Le Miroir d’eau (Water Mirror).
Built in 2006, it’s the world’s largest reflecting pool with its entertaining cycle of mist and water.
And for stunning views over the water, Le Café du Port near Pont Pierre is the perfect spot to soak up the last rays of the day. And when the sun has set, head to Le Point Rouge, a trendy underground cocktail bar and restaurant.
Bordeaux may have seven Michelin-starred restaurants but don’t go home without sampling the local speciality patisserie, canelé, a beautiful vanilla custard tart.
GO: BORDEAUX
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Stansted to Bordeaux with prices this September or October from £14.99 one-way if booked before July 13. See .
STAYING THERE: The centrally located Ibis Centre Bastide has basic but comfy rooms from £60 per night, based on two sharing. See .
MORE INFO: See .
Bordeaux is, of course, famous for its wine and La Cité du Vin — or The City of Wine — tells the story in a striking contemporary building designed to represent wine swirling into a glass.
Wine buffs should seek out Château Pape Clément, one of oldest vineyards in Bordeaux, to have a go at its winemaker course.
For just under £90, you get a tour as well as creating your own wine blend with your favourite grape variety combination and you can take home your personalised souvenir bottle.
And there’s some impressive urban artwork to be seen at the Darwin Ecosystéme, a quirky eco-hub that’s sprung up among abandoned warehouses of a old military barracks on Quai des Queyries on the right bank of the city.
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The site also has an urban farm, outdoor skate park, restaurant and organic grocery store.
Bordeaux is a city steeped in history but it’s also one that is looking towards the future.
And with Ryanair now operating more routes to the city, there’s no better excuse to visit France’s best kept secret, because forget Paris when it sizzles — nothing can beat Bordeaux when it bedazzles.
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