So much more to explore in Michigan than the vibrant Motor City

“REALLY?” That’s the first thing I hear when I say I’m off to Detroit.

For years the Motor City was known for little more than crime, decline and Eminem’s 8 Mile.

But how wrong they were.

We check into Aloft Detroit, set inside the stunning David Whitney building and yards from downtown’s bustling metropolitan hub.

Lonely Planet named Detroit its No2 city to visit in 2018, and with a host of trendy bars and restaurants it’s not hard to see why.

We eat at the Rusted Crow, a quirky place with live music and oak barrels hanging from the ceilings.

I went for the PB&J burger washed down with a craft cocktail. If you’re really hungry try the Mac & Cheese burger (yes, really).

I’m barely over last night’s dinner when it’s off to the Hudson Cafe which gives a new meaning to breakfast being the most important meal of the day.

Choose from a huge range of omelettes, waffles and pancakes. Delicious.

Now I know I’m in the Motor City but I’m not really that into cars, so the Henry Ford Museum doesn’t sound like my cup of tea.

But I’m now the one who’s wrong. There’s plenty for car lovers, but the history is the real draw.

See the car JFK was assassinated in and board the bus on which Civil Rights activist Rosa Parks refused to give up her seat.

They even have a test tube with (supposedly) Thomas Edison’s last breath.

If you’re not motored out, go to the Ford Rouge Factory. Seeing the assembly line where they make 1,300 trucks a day, just under one a minute, is eye-opening.

After refuelling at the Jolly Pumpkin Pizzeria & Brewery in midtown we visit an unassuming house now known as Hitsville USA.

Yes, if there’s one thing Detroit is famed for more than its motors, it’s Motown.

This is where it all began, and it’s like stepping back in time.

Rub shoulders with Diana Ross and the Jackson 5 in the studio, even see an old vending machine with a dime on top so a blind boy called Stevie Wonder could get his favourite snack.

Detroit isn’t just motors and music, though. Pop into the Detroit Institute of Arts, cycle along the river which separates the US from Canada, and visit Eastern Market which has been here for 126 years.

Sample the local produce while admiring the stunning graffiti that gives this area its character.

Of course, Detroit is just a tiny part of what Michigan has to offer so we move on to Ann Arbor, under an hour away.

We stayed in the Graduate, a charming hotel with chalkboards lining the reception — a hat-tip to the city’s buzzing 44,000-strong student population.

A bus tour shows off the city’s beautiful green squares and elegant buildings. At its highest point sits the Big House, the impressive college football stadium of the Wolverines.

It holds 109,000 — bigger than Wembley, and almost the city’s entire population.

Ann Arbor is best enjoyed at night — Main Street’s bars and cafes leave me wishing I was a student again.

Pretzel Bell is a restaurant-cum-sports bar, with screens, ping-pong tables and the best New York Strip steak ever.
After a short but sweet stay we move on to Grand Rapids.

If art is more your scene, this is the place for you. En route we visit the Frederik Meijer Gardens And Sculpture Park which has 170 works from Rodin, Moore, Hepworth etc in its grounds.

Grand Rapids hosts the annual ArtPrize, the world’s biggest public art event. Sculptures, paintings and everything in between line the parks, streets and bars — even our hotel, the Amway Grand Plaza.

There’s so much art going on here I do a double take every time I see a street sign.

The next morning we head to Oval Beach.

It’s so peaceful standing on the long stretch of golden sand and looking out at the vast Lake Michigan.

The welcoming city of Saugatuck is a perfect place to stroll, grab a coffee and explore the quirky shops.

Now for something a bit more adventurous. We grab our paddles and go kayaking on the Kalamazoo River.

Floating along with the sun beating down is an incredible way to spend an hour and the highlight of my trip.

I’m glad I’ve worked up an appetite, because Food Dance in Kalamazoo is somewhere you want to be hungry.

The homely restaurant has a real farm-to-table ethos, with the passionate staff taking time to explain where everything comes from.

And everything, from steak to salmon and swordfish, is delicious.