Discover fantastic food, historical sights and beautiful weather in stunning region of Puglia — and that’s part of Italy’s ‘boot’
THERE’S nothing wrong with having burrata for breakfast.
Or so I told myself after twice starting my day with the fresh Italian cheese, made of mozzarella and cream, while in Puglia.
Located in the heel of the boot that is Italy, Puglia is a great taste of Italian culture while avoiding the usual suspects like Rome and Venice.
I started my stay in the white city of Ostuni. Perched on a hill, the entirely white-walled town is a feast for the eyes — and Instagram.
I stayed at La Sommita Relais, a beautiful hotel at the top of Ostuni’s cobbled streets, near the city’s main cathedral. The 15-room boutique hotel was a castle then turned into a residence in the 16th century.
It still has tall, vaulted ceilings and old stone walls, including in the individually decorated bedrooms.
Its interior is ultra-chic and the outside spaces are just as impressive. Large communal balconies are dotted with stylish sofas and tables, perfect for taking in the views of the fields on the outskirts of town.
There’s a large, unheated outdoor Jacuzzi — when we visited in late September it was just about too chilly to try but it would be perfect in summer.
I came to Italy for the food, and wasn’t disappointed. The in-house restaurant is Michelin- starred Cielo and is a serious treat. There are only 11 tables so expect top service, with a refined version of traditional Puglian food. But those stars don’t come cheap — the meat tasting menu is €75, with regular dishes from €20.
Away from the fancy Michelin star, rustic food is all the rage. One of the most popular dishes is the delicious Orecchiette con le Cime di Rapa — small ear-shaped pasta with leafy turnip tops and anchovies. And you can find it at most restaurants in town for a more reasonable €9.
Walk off the day’s gelatos by exploring Ostuni’s streets. The white houses are dotted with cacti and green shutters.
See more of Puglia by jumping on a train to Lecce. The historic city is just an hour away and it cost just €5.60 to get there.
La Fiermontina must be the most stylish place in town to stay. Just five minutes from the centre, it has 16 rooms — and a great back story.
Opened two years ago, it is a tribute to the owner’s grandmother, Antonia Fiermonte, who was born in Puglia. She had a love life worthy of an EastEnders storyline.
Married to French sculptor René Letourneur, she then ditched him and wed his friend Jacques Zwobada but died at 42 — and her death brought the grieving friends together again.
Their sculptures now adorn the gardens, with drawings and paintings in the lobby and bedrooms. I managed to enjoy a last-of-the-summer dip in the swimming pool, surrounded by olive trees.
The bedrooms are modern but with traditional stone floors and beamed ceilings. I could have stayed in my room all day but had to tear myself away to eat my way round town.
The white of Ostuni made way for sand-coloured stone in the city of Lecce — a delight of winding cobbled streets, shops and restaurants.
Admire the Lecce Cathedral — stunning by day, even more so when lit up at night.
The town is also a coffee lover’s dream, but forget your standard flat white. The favourite here is served over ice, with almond milk.
Our writer tried out rooms at La Fiermontina hotel in Lecce
Sant’Oronzo is the main square, home to the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre and the main tourist hub. It also features Caffé Alvino, one of Lecce’s most renowned coffee shops. Sip an espresso at the counter like the locals or indulge in its many cakes and desserts.
Lecee’s the perfect place for a mid-night snack, too. Bakery Pasticceria Natale is open late, ideal for that post-dinner gelato.
But make like the locals and wait until 9pm or so to eat, as Lecce pretty much shuts down after 3pm for a siesta and wakes again from 6pm.
It used to be a gated city but walk for around five minutes outside the Porta San Biago and you’ll find amazing restaurant 3 Rane, or the Three Frogs.
It’s a tiny place, with just five tables, so practise your Italian and book ahead. The food is the same price as most restaurants in the city, but is some of the best I had. I enjoyed spaghetti with courgette and mussels for just €13.
That infamous breakfast burrata came from Bianco di Bianco — a beautiful bistro with a terrace, just far enough from the centre of Lecce not to be full of tourists. I recommend it for brunch or a pre-dinner Aperol spritz.
After dinner, head for a nightcap at one of Lecce’s trendy bars. Quanto Basta is achingly cool, with Prohibition next door. Attractive, bearded and tattooed barmen whip up a fine cocktail for around €6.
Go: Puglia
GETTING THERE: EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Brindisi, up to three days per week in summer, with prices starting from £25.24 per person one-way. See .
STAYING THERE: Rooms at La Sommita Relais from £120 per night, inc breakfast. See .
Rooms at La Fiermontina from £160 per night, inc breakfast. See .
MORE INFO: See
The Saloon Keeper is a 1930s-themed bar that I spent far too much time at.
Don’t be the first one to the party though — Italians start a night out much later than us. It was dead at 8pm but heaving by 11pm — and people spill out onto the streets all across Lecce on a Saturday night.
We could barely move for the crowds as young Italians enjoyed their drinks al fresco.