Follow in the footsteps of Ross Poldark and Demelza on Cornwall’s ruggedly stunning coastline
Take a pilgrimage to visit the dramatic natural beauty back drop which lights up the hit BBC drama
POLDARK’S lingering shots of stunning coastline and rugged moors have encouraged hordes of tourists to visit Cornwall.
And I became one of them with my own pilgrimage to see how many of the BBC show’s locations I could squeeze into one weekend.
First on my hit-list were the beautiful beaches.
Porthgwarra is a secluded fishing cove on the south coast where Poldark once stripped off for a swim.
The beauty spot is almost as pretty as Aidan Turner with his top off and Porthgwarra Cove Cafe is a great place to stop for a Cornish pasty.
Further up the coast is Porthcurno beach where visitors can stroll the same sands that Demelza and Ross walked during a dream sequence.
The sea is sprinkled with surfers and swimmers, but what remains from Ross Poldark’s time are the chimneys peppering the landscape.
They were mine mad in the 18th century and no tour is complete without a look at Poldark’s own struggling coal business, Wheal Leisure — filmed at Botallack Mine, a National Trust site near St Just.
The ruin of the old engine house that hugs the high cliffs is instantly recognisable to fans of the show.
A short drive away is Levant Mine, or Tressiders Rolling Mill on the show.
Levant was known as the queen of the submarine mines for its tunnels sprawling snake-like, deep below the seabed.
Visitors can raid the dressing-up box and pose for photos as Ross and Demelza before grabbing piping hot pasties from the cafe.
Invented in the 13th century, pasties were favoured by the rich before miners adopted them as a filling lunch for the tunnels.
Some would leave the last bite for the “Cornish Knockers” — thought to be the ghosts of dead miners who were said to knock on the tunnel walls to warn of an impending collapse.
Working in the mines guaranteed a job for life — just not a very long one.
Hot, dusty tunnels and non-existent health and safety meant lung disease, arsenic poisoning and accidents were rife.
In 1919, disaster hit Levant when a lift broke with more than 100 miners using it, killing 31 people.
Back then, most workers dreamed of having a boss with a conscience, like Poldark.
It is possible to visit most of the filming locations by car during a two-day trip.
Poldark journeyed by horseback and much of his galloping took place on the cliffs above Chapel Porth beach.
A short drive away is the fishing village of Charlestown, which serves as Truro city on the show.
Today, the lovely, unspoiled Georgian port harbours a fleet of square-rigged ships that transport you hundreds of years back in time.
It’s no wonder Charlestown was also used to film scenes in BBC drama Taboo, ITV’s Hornblower and the movie Mansfield Park.
I stayed the night at the Victorian-era Rashleigh Arms, a convenient base with coastal themed rooms.
The next morning I drove to Bodmin Moor to see Bodmin Jail, where Ross staged a breakout to rescue Jim Carter.
The 18th-century prison, which closed in 1927, now offers tours, ghost walks and even takes wedding bookings.
To see how the likes of the series’ Elizabeth would have lived, visit the grand Scorrier House on the north coast, or The Lost Gardens of Heligan near Mevagissey.
Part of a huge family estate, the 1,000-acre plot was completely overgrown with weeds until 25 years ago.
A restoration project revealed secret gardens, woodlands and even a jungle with exotic plants.
Entrance fees go towards the ongoing renewal project.
The growing gardens are symbolic of Cornwall’s ability to adapt.
While mining was once the hottest thing in Cornwall, now it is tourism — or for most, a young mine owner on the telly.
- Poldark Series 3 is out on DVD and digital download now.
GO: Cornwall
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the 4H Rashleigh Arms cost from £55 per person, based on two sharing.
For more information, see or call 0345 241 1133.