Plunge into Dungeness and get close to nature on the Kent coast
A nature reserve three miles out into the English Channel with a nuclear power station is not a typical holiday destination but is a place where you can create happy memories
“EXCUSE me, madam!” the policeman shouted as he ran past.
Heart pounding, I jumped out of the way and watched as he dodged the crowds, one hand gripping the gun in his holster and the other on the semi-automatic weapon across his chest.
As the officer bounded across the room, everyone held their breath as he stretched forward . . . and took a tray of steaming hot coffee from the arms of a smiling lady.
Phew. Panic over.
I hadn’t really expected a heavy police presence at the 90th birthday celebrations of the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway but it was good to know that should a psycho trainspotter kick off, somebody had our back.
The policeman was actually part of the Civil Nuclear Constabulary, tasked with protecting Dungeness B — the controversial power station that looms over the steam railway in Kent’s Romney Marsh.
As my husband Nick and I supped a local brew from the station’s Ales By The Rails bar, it was weird to think we were standing in the shadow of a nuclear reactor needing armed cops to protect it, but hey!
The power station is just as much part of the scenery now as the old lighthouse standing next to it.
Dungeness is the end of the line for the railway and that term is rather appropriate for this quirky corner of the UK.
Home to one of the largest, driest areas of shingle in Europe, Dungeness — a national nature reserve — is often classed as a desert, despite jutting out three miles into the English Channel.
It’s a curious place: almost otherworldly with a smattering of wooden fisherman’s cottages ranging from the ramshackle to the state-of-the-art.
With its flat landscape and big skies, it’s easy to see why so many artists and writers have been inspired by the landscape.
It certainly got a big thumbs-up from Nick and I, who visited for the weekend with our Westie, Ernie.
We stayed in the suitably strangely-named Apple Fish — one of many big-windowed bungalows along Coast Drive, where you can see the shingle (of course), Folkestone and the White Cliffs of Dover from the comfort of your own lounge. We were bowled over by the two-bed bungalow’s stunning interior.
It was cool and contemporary with plenty of nods to nautical design and the handy welcome pack — with all the essentials, plus wine for us and treats for Ernie — went down a storm.
The conservatory was also the perfect place to sit and have a cuppa and watch the steam trains go chugging by at the bottom of the garden.
MOST READ IN TRAVEL
Nick and I enjoyed waving to the day-trippers, while Ernie preferred to bark a greeting.
Guests can make the most of Apple Fish’s great selection of books, DVDs and games for both kids and adults alike.
But best of all, it’s a mere 20-minute walk from The Pilot Inn, which is famed for its huge portions of freshly-caught fish and chips.
My only complaint? Dogs aren’t allowed inside the pub so it was lucky we visited in beer garden weather.
There’s plenty to see and do nearby. Derek Jarman’s Garden on the Dungeness Estate is a must-see (if a little bit odd).
The Denge Sound Mirrors — wartime “listening ears” designed to warn of enemy planes approaching — are also worth checking out on one of the RSPB open days.
You’ll recognise them from many a music video and album cover.
Ernie loved the spectacular dunes of Camber Sands a few miles away, and if you’re happy to share the beach with kite surfers, certain parts are dog-friendly all year round.
The quaint town of Rye, with its independent shops and cobbled streets, should be on your to-do list as well.
But if you’re anything like us, the peace and tranquillity of Dungeness will keep pulling you back.
Yes it’s weird, but it’s wonderful too.
GO: KENT
STAYING THERE: A two-night stay at Apple Fish in Dungeness, which sleeps four, starts from £341.
For more information see or call 01227 464958
