Isle’s goats are ideal neighbours in haven of tranquility Kefalonia
The island of Kefalonia, in the Ionian Sea, west of mainland Greece, is bigger than Ibiza but with a quarter of the population
THERE is nothing I love more on holiday than lying by the pool topping up my tan while reading a good book.
I love the peace and tranquillity — and I hate being disturbed.
But during my summer holiday to the Greek island of Kefalonia I started to look forward to hearing my neighbours pass our cottage every day.
These were, however, not fellow holidaymakers. They were the local herd of bleating goats. Hundreds, from babies to billy goats, scampering along with their tinkling-tinkling, heading to the milking parlour every day.
Their owner, the local farmer, walked peacefully behind with his wooden walking stick, and a dog by his side.
As the bells drifted off into the distance all I had to do was lie back down, pick up my book and occasionally look beyond the beautiful pool, trees and turquoise-blue sea to the island of Ithaka in the distance. Bliss.
The island of Kefalonia is in the Ionian Sea, west of mainland Greece. It is bigger than Ibiza but with only a quarter of the population. I've been to Ibiza many times in the past few years and these islands couldn't be more different.
The goat farmer is just one example of how this island remains so beautifully traditional. The locals are friendly, the scenery with its sandy coves and dry, rugged landscapes is jaw-dropping — and life is relaxed.
We stayed in the Wine Grower's Cottage, close to Fiscardo, in the northeast of the island. The two-bedroom conversion with its own pool and original wine press is surrounded by nature — velvety-green cypress trees, lavender bushes and aromatic plants.
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A walk through the neighbouring forest brings you out at a pebble beach which is shared between just three houses. Amazing.
Although it has been beautifully restored in the traditional style, the cottage, which sleeps four, also comes with all the mod cons. In fact, you never need to leave — but even I cannot laze around in one place for an entire week.
Hiring a car is a must here — and lovely Fiscardo is about a ten-minute drive from the cottage. It is the northernmost port of Kefalonia and 20 miles north of the capital Argostoli.
The pathways here are made of a light-hued stone, contrasting with the pastel-coloured restaurants with traditional Venetian-style architecture overlooking the bay.
Elli's restaurant, at the end of the harbour, has stunning views and food. We tried the local fish, moussaka and Greek salad with fresh feta, which were all fantastic.
And even at this pricey end of the island, food costs a bit less than in Ibiza, with main courses for about nine euros (£7.60) each. There's also less nightlife, though. If you want lively nightclubs and bars, you won't find them here. Kefalonia is more suited to evenings with food and wine.
The slow-paced life continues on the roads, as they are so windingly skinny and often full of large buses and roadworks.
But there is plenty to see.
Myrtos Beach is one of the most popular spots, with dazzling white pebbles and exquisite blue waters — which is probably why it featured in Captain Corelli's Mandolin.
But my favourite was Jerusalem Beach — much quieter and still with crystal-clear water. There you will also find the fantastic rustic Odysseas Taverna.
It is run by a great local guy called Oddy, a larger-than-life character who welcomed us like long-lost friends.
His mum cooks up whatever is fresh and in season and food is served under winding vines that give essential shade.
It's traditional family cooking. I had huge and tasty prawns at 16 euros (£13.60), and the best gigantes bean dish I've ever eaten at less than five euros (£4.20) served with fresh bread and olive oil.
If you need to cool down, head to the Drogarati Caves on the east of the island, regarded as the most beautiful in Greece with their huge stalactites and stalgmites. But it's not for the faint-hearted as you have to head downa fair few steps to get to them. Plus, it is a bit pricey at eight euros (£6.80) per adult. But worth it if you like history.
Returning to the cottage after sightseeing was always a treat. The housekeeper Swabe cleaned every day and left us local honey, olive oil and feta.
And on our final evening in this amazing spot he cooked us chicken curry and chocolate puddings. Not particularly a Greek speciality, but gorgeous.
We then spent a night watching the sun drop over the forest and the pretty bats emerge into the darkness.
And as we toasted our holiday with the local, very drinkable wine, I realised I'd had my most relaxing holiday in years — and had developed a love of goats.
GO: Kefalonia
GETTING THERE: Thomas Cook has flights from several UK airports to Kefalonia starting in May from £49.99 one-way. See .
STAYING THERE: Wine Grower's Cottage sleeps four and prices start from £1020 a week. See .