IT’S 25C, I’m now on to my third glass of wine and a rollerblading waiter whizzes past me.
I haven’t even had to travel far for warmer temperatures, with Agadir just a four-hour flight from the UK.
The Moroccan city is home to the country’s largest market, Souk El Had, as well as a bustling harbour and modern marina.
Rebuilt following a devastating earthquake in 1960, the sprawling city nestles against the Atlantic Ocean and its palm-lined wide roads feel more Miami than Morocco.
No wonder the South African country looks set to be a holiday hotspot as Brits look past Spain next year.
I’m staying in Taghazout, a surf town with an ever-growing number of modern beach-side resorts, just 13 miles north of Agadir and its sizzling souk.
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One of the newest resorts is the five-star adults-only Pickalbatros White Beach, which features pristine white marble steps, manicured gardens and a huge airy lobby offering views of the beach through giant glass windows.
It’s affordable luxury at its finest, and the perfect place for a last-minute holiday with my closest gal pal.
From our plush room we could marvel at the sea views or step out on to a private patio through floor-to-ceiling glass doors.
Our en-suites were just as glamorous, including huge marble showers with built-in seats and extra jets for an almost too-powerful wash.
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Just steps away were the resort’s six pools which wind around the sprawling resort — decked out with sunloungers, sofas and umbrellas for guests to enjoy.
Mountain fortress
It was slightly too cold for more than a quick dip, but thankfully there are three large hot tubs in which to warm up.
The promenade behind the hotel lines Taghazout Beach, where hordes of eager surfers took to the sea before I’d even finished my morning coffee.
As a novice surfer, I opted to watch those riding the waves, while my companion made friends with the stray dogs and hawkers selling Moroccan breads.
The deep yellow sand — not yet warm from the early-morning sun — was as soft as flour as my feet sank in.
But while the hotel is so tempting you might not wish to leave, a tour of Agadir is a must while staying.
The city is extremely modern, built after the devastating quake that killed a third of Agadir’s population.
A cemetery and Wall of Remembrance. commemorate the 15,000 lives lost.
The destruction also wiped out the entire village within the kasbah of Agadir Oufla, a 16th-century mountain fortress.
Now a heritage site, the walls have been carefully restored although the interiors remain as ruins.
This is also where both locals and tourists flock for the best views of Agadir, overlooking the harbour and marina.
But if you can’t face the drive, or brave a hike to the top, don’t worry as a cable car service opened in 2022.
Also rebuilt after the quake was Souk El Had. Inside are 3,000 shops selling everything you could imagine, and more, and where it’s easy to lose hours of your day.
Or so we were told. We arrived on a Monday with empty bags and full wallets, only to be told that is the one day of the week it is closed.
Our resourceful guide instead found a smaller artisanal market nearby.
We stocked up on fabulous Christmas presents of candles, jars and intricate wooden carvings for about half the price they would likely set us back in a trendy UK boutique.
Later, I found out I could have knocked more dirhams off the price, so my haggling skills certainly needed more work — as well as my rusty French.
We were left rather peckish after our shopping spree, but thankfully our resort had us covered.
There are bountiful buffets — succulent seafood in the Culina restaurant and Italian delights such as fresh pasta and fancy desserts at Alfredo.
Speakeasy-style bar
Our all-inclusive plan also allowed us one free visit per stay to the speciality restaurant Azha, which offers up delicious authentic Moroccan cuisine.
There, we feasted on deliciously rich lentil soup and bread, followed by an aubergine dip and crispy samosas.
The food never stopped coming, with beef couscous, chicken tagines and sugared treats to choose from — all while the super-attentive staff were constantly on hand to serve up our drinks.
One cheeky waiter “misheard” us asking for a large glass, and we ended up with a full-to-the-brim flute of wine.
He giggled at us as we then had to find straws to avoid embarrassing ourselves even further. But we escaped with our overflowing drinks to the speakeasy-style Sachi bar upstairs.
With panelled walls and huge marble statues, as well as plush velvet chairs, it felt like we had stepped back in time as we lost the rest of the evening to Aperol Spritzes on tap and stunning views.
The daily pink sunsets reflecting off the calm pools were the most beautiful I had ever seen.
The rest of our stay was spent exactly as a winter-sun holiday should be — ordering cocktails to our sunloungers from the beach bar as we posted smug photos on Instagram, annoying our friends and family. Days were punctuated only by poolside events, with tennis, football, darts and dance parties to choose from.
Staff would encourage us to partake — and even joined in one of our card games to show us a magic trick I still don’t understand.
Stress-busting treatments are a must too — with prices in Morocco a fraction of those in the UK.
Our hammam scrub in the hotel spa cost £33 and left us invigorated and ready to explore the saunas and steam rooms down the winding tiled corridors.
I definitely had a small nap during my relaxing massage — £25 for 30 minutes.
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It left me knot-free and smelling of jasmine, if a little messy-haired from the vigorous head rub.
Safe to say, I was left warmed up by this beautiful country — but left with a heavier suitcase than planned with all the gifts.
GO: AGADIR
GETTING THERE / STAYING THERE: Tui offers seven nights’ all-inclusive staying at the 5T Pickalbatros White Beach Resort Taghazout from £756 per person including flights from Gatwick on February 3, 2025, and transfers.
Based on two sharing a Deluxe Twin room with pool view and balcony or terrace. See
OUT & ABOUT: Tui offers excursions including the Discover Agadir City Tour from £27