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MAD FOR MELIDES
I visited Portugal’s best-kept secret loved by celebs – and found hidden beaches only locals know about
Arriving in the village, it was as if I’d stepped into a time machine and emerged to find a peaceful retro paradise
UNDISCOVERED Melides didn’t have so much as a single sentence to its name in guidebooks – but now, thanks to Prince Harry and Meghan Markle, Portugal’s best-kept secret is now firmly on the map.
The couple have purchased a holiday hideaway in this small village on the Alentejo coast, less than an hour and a half’s drive from Lisbon.
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They’re in good company. Harry’s cousin, Princess Eugenie and husband Jack Brooksbank have already bought a property at the CostaTerra Golf and Ocean club and both Shakira and Madonna have enjoyed stays.
Setting out to discover why this scarcely known location is so loved by celebs and royalty alike, I found a flamingo-filled lagoon, picturesque rice fields and vineyards, charming village streets without a single tourist and, perhaps best of all, stunning secret beaches only the locals knew about.
Arriving in the village, it was as if I’d stepped into a time machine and emerged to find a peaceful retro paradise.
Bohemian art on the side of the road celebrated “democracy” and “liberation”.
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Blue village houses stretched as far as the eye could see, making Melides resemble what a yesteryear Santorini might be like if it was totally tourist-free.
A cluster of small restaurants line the main cobblestone square — O Melidense serves up inexpensive traditional local dishes including glistening fried sardines and steaming bowls of garlic-infused clams.
It’s easy to imagine Harry and Meghan wandering these streets without a single soul recognising them.
Yet I’d seen nothing yet. Within minutes, I’d been whisked away by a local driver on a Get Your Guide tour of the secret beaches of Melides, showcasing ones so remote and secluded that they’re only accessible by 4WD.
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Bouncing in my seat as we descended down the bumpy track to what my guide uncompromisingly declared was “the best beach in the world”, I understood instantly why he was so enthused.
Part of a huge stretch of uninterrupted coastline said to be the longest in Europe, the beaches here are so stunning that even some of the Algarve’s biggest hitters pale in comparison.
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My favourite was Gale Beach, with dramatically carved sandstone cliffs which could have been cut straight out of the Grand Canyon.
The crashing waves had such powerful acoustics that they roared like thunder — and in spite of their beauty, I was almost the only weekend visitor there to enjoy them.
The tour also took in a blue lagoon where, alongside tiny wooden boats, flamingos often bob along between April and October.
Horseback rides on the beach are popular too.
Unsurprisingly, public transport options to this remote idyll are few and far between, helping to cement the wilderness reputation that gives the area its appeal.
It’s possible to drive, but I opted to book a transfer with Daytrip — and I wasn’t disappointed.
My driver, Alex, had inside information and anecdotes about every place we drove past, and it was like booking an Uber driver and a tour guide combined.
For a family or group of friends, a seven-seater van with driver could potentially be hired for as little as £20 per person.
There’s only one hotel in Melides — the 5H Vermelho by shoe designer Christian Louboutin. Rooms here start at a pricey £280 a night, even in December.
But there are other ways to unwind in the countryside. Just a short drive away in Grandola lies A Serenada Enoturismo, a family-run winery set amid blissfully peaceful vineyards and offering the same remote experience for a fraction of the price.
Moorish palace
Olive, lemon, orange, cork and eucalyptus trees are dotted around and skies are so clear that the staff have even seen comets with the naked eye.
Self-catering is easy with microwaves in rooms, but the in-house restaurant serves up local produce grown no more than 5km away. It’s an authentic country experience.
Soon it was time to reluctantly leave the region — but was I about to fly home without lingering in Lisbon first? No chance.
Continuing the theme of staying away from the main tourist trail, I hunted down Casa do Alentejo, a city restaurant offering a taste of the Alentejo coast where I’d just been.
Completely inconspicuous from the outside, it’s accessed by a side door adjoining a currency store, but as unsuspecting tourists walked straight past, I stepped into a veritable Moorish palace, complete with a Moroccan-style interior courtyard and a dining room decorated with the region’s iconic blue and white tiles.
The most authentic dish here is the monkfish with rice.
The 138 Liberdade hotel is just a few minutes’ walk away, on a street full of glitzy stores the celebs would love, but still close to hidden gems.
Elsewhere, the 1908 Lisboa Hotel is equally unconventional, perched on the outskirts of the under-rated Moorish quarter.
A building renowned for its award-winning architecture, it’s a stone’s throw from a decorative tile factory and is surrounded by bars the locals love.
For fab food, check out the Luster Hotel’s restaurant Oui Mais Non.
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It might sound French but actually dishes up authentic Portuguese and Brazilian seafood, while the strawberry-covered croissants and home-made honey at the breakfast table can’t fail to pique the appetite for a return visit.
Whether it’s secret stretches of coast or hidden corners of the city, stepping away from the crowds has never looked more appealing — no wonder Harry and Meghan are sold on it.
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GO: MELIDES
GETTING THERE: EasyJet flies to Lisbon from London Luton and other UK airports from £21 each way.
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From there, book transfers with Daytrip ().
STAYING THERE: Rooms at Melides’ only hotel, Vermelho, average at £312 per night, while rooms at the nearby A Serenada Enoturismo start at around £89 per night.
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In Lisbon, check out the 138 Liberdade hotel (), the 1908 () with rooms from £130per night and £150per night respectively.
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