Atacama Desert in Chile is the driest place on earth but you can still get a glass of bubbly
Towering volcanoes, skyscraper sand dunes and shimmering salt flats all feature in this glorious region
CHILE'S Atacama Desert is the driest place on earth.
An arid landscape of towering volcanoes, skyscraper sand dunes and shimmering salt flats.
So, of course, I am standing soaked to the skin in a thunderstorm of almost apocalyptic proportions watching lightning bolts flash across an angry, ink-black sky.
But at least I'm alive.
Our guide from the Explora resort in San Pedro de Atacama cancels our planned hike through the salt canyons en route as the weather closes in. Lightning is fond of both canyons and salt apparently, so best not get in the way.
We head instead to Moon Valley — where the soaring dunes and lunar landscape are matched only by the staggering numbers of tourists trekking the same tiny path.
Avoiding these crowds is Explora's unique selling point. It may be pricey but Explora's ability to help you discover this region in glorious isolation is worth every penny. Our hike through spiny foxtail grasses to the Puritama hot springs takes in rocky gorges and cactus-spiked hills but we don't spot a soul until we arrive at the thermal waters.
Even here, Explora has a natural pool fringed with grasses reserved just for us, with lounging chairs spread of local snacks.
At sunset, we head out to the salt flats and their resident flocks of flamingos — as seen dancing across your TV screen in David Attenborough's latest Planet Earth series.
With black clouds rolling in over the volcanic peaks, the carpet of white salt crystals sparkles as the sun sets into a flaming sky. It's magical.
Next morning, while others saddle up to explore the red plains via horseback — Explora has its own stables — I opt for a 22km bike ride into the desert.
As my idea of exercise is tackling the odd flight of stairs, attempting a ride some 2,500 metres above sea level was a challenge.
The high altitude and my lack of fitness meant I struggled at times as we cycled through sandy terrain, stopping thankfully for me to catch my breath and explore ancient abandoned villages.
Returning with muscles aflame and heart beating furiously, I'd never felt more alive. Our short trip meant we h to climb hig Altiplano plateau hardcore hikes fo had no chance higher into the for the more — for those you'll need at least two days to acclimatise. But Explora's gorgeous swimming pools surrounded by lush greenery and desert blooms make a great place to do so.
Your stay includes all the excursions, meals and drinks as well as the chance to take in the celestial beauty at night with stargazing from the hotel's very own observatory.
And while our adventures on terra firma were exciting enough, there's now the chance to admire the Atacama from the skies with the recent arrival of hot air balloon flights.
We sip coffee as we watch the blood-red balloons inflate at sunrise before climbing aboard and soaring above the plains to drink in the views as the sun's rays turn the arid landscape from dull browns and grey to rich reds and greens. Landing with barely a bump, we toast our trip with a glass of Chilean bubbly.
While Chile may be half a world away, new direct flights from British Airways mean it has never been easier to explore this fascinating South American country.
The 14-and-a-half-hour flight on BA's new Dreamliner brings you to Santiago, in the centre of this sliver of a country.
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It lies in the central valley, flanked by the looming peaks of the Andes and Chilean Coastal Range. For years, travellers would simply stop over before heading up to Atacama or the Patagonian Desert in the south.
But a burgeoning foodie scene and transformed neighbourhoods have seen the Chilean capital come into its own.
We toast our arrival with the first of many pisco sours — the national drink made with Chilean pisco brandy and foaming egg white.
It slips down perfectly on the rooftop of our hotel, the boutique Luciano K, a restored Art Deco gem just a few minutes' walk from the Barrio Bellavista neighbourhood, with its buzzing bars and al fresco restaurants.
For an even better view, head to the 63rd floor of the Costanera tower for a circular snapshot of the city with its wide boulevards of colonial-style grand buildings and endlessly green city parks.
But it is the city's vibrant Central Market that offers the best way to soak up the real heart of Santiago and meet its locals. Stallholders vie to assemble gravity-defying displays of fruit and veg, sold at a fraction of the price of the city's supermarkets.
Relax al fresco at night at one of the bars or restaurants in the trendy Barrio Lastarria or Barrio Italia areas.
Just an hour's drive west of the city lies the bustling coastal town of Valparaiso, tumbling chaotically over 40 hills down to the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean.
I loved this enchanting port with its colourful graffiti art on what seemed like almost every wall of the steep, cobbled streets.
The city has a friendly, laid-back vibe and welcoming locals. No more so than at our base, the newly-restored Palacio Astoreca Hotel, set in two grand old buildings high above the bay and with fabulous views.
Returning to Santiago for our flight home, we stop off in the Casablanca Valley that lies between Valparaiso and the capital in the heart of the Chilean winelands.
Picking up a bottle or two after a tasting at the Matetic vineyard, we settled for a last lunch at its hotel, a restored 100-year-old hacienda with glorious formal gardens.
Gazing out over wildflower meadows and green hills while sampling delicate ceviche — slivers of the freshest raw fish marinated in lemon or lime juice — it was tempting to "miss" our flight home.
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GETTING THERE: BA flies direct from Heathrow four times a week from £950.See .
STAYING THERE: Cox & Kings has a three-night B&B stay in Santiago from £1,450 per person, including flights and transfers. Valparaiso can be added for £345 for two nights. See or call 020 3642 0861.
DESERT: From £2,395 per person, which includes a night's B&B in Santiago, three nights' B&B in Atacama, airport transfers, domestic flights with LATAM and return flights with BA. Upgrade to the Explora Atacama for three nights for £895, including board and excursions.
MORE INFO: See .