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SEA YOU THERE

Supersized UK seaside town that’s home to the country’s biggest beach and foot-long Mr Whippy ice creams

Check our video diary of our trip to the seaside town of Weymouth above

“YOU know our ice creams are quite big, right?” said the man in the kiosk, with a cheeky grin. I had heard rumours of his legendary Mr Whippys, but even so, I wasn’t fully prepared. 

He grabbed a cone and began artistically dispensing the dairy, producing a full foot-high Marge Simpson hairdo’s worth of soft serve splendour, balanced precariously on its fragile, wafer base.  

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Newton's Cove in Weymouth has some of the country's biggest ice creams
Bennett's fish and chips are among the best I've ever had in the UKCredit: Alamy
Bennett's and The Marlboro are considered the best among Weymouth's locals
A boat trip is one of the best ways to see Weymouth and Portland

It took my partner and I the best part of half an hour to finish the treat between us. For £3.50, it’s certainly the greatest value Mr Whippy ice cream in the country, and my guess is it's the biggest in size too.  

This ginormous gelato was one of several delights that satisfied my hunger on my weekend away in Weymouth.  

I hardly needed it at the time either, as I’d already had a good go at making the most of all the food that the town had to offer. 

High-end seafood snacks like those found at the Hatch on the Harbour are available for the more discerning customer, with their lobster rolls and crab sandwiches both stuffed with fresh morsels practically pulled right from the water.

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The prices were still wallet-friendly, at £16 and £13 respectively.

However, it was the fish and chip shops that shone the brightest. 

When it comes to chippies, Weymouth has some stiff competition that verges on turf war status.  

If you want to start an argument among the locals, you’ve simply to ask which is the best, Bennett’s or The Marlboro. Obviously to settle the dispute, I had to sample both.  

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The scampi and the pea fritter from Bennett’s rank high among the better chip shop dinners I’ve had and were also affordably priced at £7.60 and £2.65, while chips were less than a fiver for a large portion.

However, the unique crinkle-cut chips from The Marlboro, were every bit as good and the portions were so generous, they could almost be described as charitable, while also giving change from a £5 note.

After such voracious gobbling, a good walk was needed, which was fortunate for me as about an hour from the town centre is Chesil Beach, which at 18 miles long is the longest beach in the country. 

It stretches from the peninsula of Portland, all the way along to Bridport. 

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At the Weymouth end, it’s made up mostly of pebbles, however, the further towards Bridport it gets, the finer the sand becomes.  

Smugglers who used to use the beach could tell exactly where they were when arriving at the shore, due to the size of the stones beneath their feet. 

This interesting little titbit is one I picked up on my Weymouth & Portland boat trip, which included a tour of Portland harbour. 


The history of Weymouth as a seaside town

How Weymouth became a popular seaside staycation option for Brits.

Weymouth first became popular as a seaside destination in the Georgian period, after scientists declared sea bathing to be good for the health.

The town then grew even in popularity after George III chose to visit the town on 14 different occasions between 1789 and 1805.

His visits are still celebrated to this day with a painted statue standing tall on the seafront.

They also led to the town becoming one of the most celebrated and visited seaside towns in the country, according to Weymouth Museum.

A railway was then opened at the town in 1857, which allowed it to thrive even more as a seaside destination, as well as a trading port.

Both World Wars had a big impact on the town, particularly the second, with the town home to a large naval base.

More than half a million troops travelled through the area to fight at the Battle of Normandy, while the bouncing bomb was tested in the Fleet lagoon to the west of town.

Since then, it has returned to its former status as a holiday destination, with Brits heading there in their numbers during the summer months.

 It has 1.6 million staying visitors and 2.1 million day visits every year.

The relaxing hour-long excursion showed off some of the highlights of the nearby coast, including Nothe Fort and the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle, while windsurfers and friendly seals were among those who joined us out at sea. 

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Adults get to set sail for £15 each, while under 12s can climb aboard for a tenner.

Following a day of sailing, walking and eating it was time for a cocktail, which Weymouth has in abundance. 

My bar of choice was The Nook, which had a live samba band playing in its outdoor seating area just a few steps from the town’s main beach. 

Its extensive array of refreshments was as impressive as the mixologists’ execution in making them, with the caramelised pineapple daiquiri my favourite. 

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And at £7 a pop, one could easily while away an evening there, without spending a small fortune.

Weymouth's harbour is surrounded by restaurants and pubs
Chesil Beach is the longest stretch of shoreline in the UKCredit: Alamy
I joined a Weymouth & Portland boat tour for a trip around Portland harbour
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An award-winning bed was then waiting for me at St Johns Guesthouse – a TripAdvisor Best of the Best 2024 winner, along with several other gongs, including an AA breakfast award from last year.  

Its fry-ups were the perfect way to start the day, particularly after being so well-rested from a night in their wonderfully cosy and comfortable bedrooms, which start at £120 per night including breakfast.

The B&B sits just a stone’s throw away from the beach, meaning the town and all it has to offer is right on your doorstep, while also being at a quieter end of the strip, so weekend parties don’t keep you up at night. 

Lynne and Andy who run the place are incredibly friendly too, meaning it’s easy to feel like you’re right at home.  

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