EXTRA TIME
How to visit the German cities hosting Euro 2024 between games – with amazing beers and local-loved restaurants
Expect gorgeous views over Stuttgart at sunset, taking in the whole Neckar Valley
GERMANY is not all football, frankfurters and beer.
Admittedly, it is usually outstanding at all three.
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With the Euros starting there next week, the focus is on Der Mannschaft – as the national team is known – on the field of play.
But if you can tear yourselves from the wooden benches serving lager and sausages near the stadiums, Germany’s cultural experience away from Berlin and Munich might just surprise you.
Sure, go for the footie, but once the game is over and the plastic pint cups have been cleared, these cities have a lot to stay for, as Dean Scoggins reveals.
STUTTGART
STADIUM: MHPArena (Stuttgart Arena), home of club Stuttgart in Bundesliga. Capacity 50,000.
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Focus match: Scotland v Hungary, June 23.
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FAMOUS FOR: Being the home of Mercedes and Porsche — and most of the 660,000 residents seem to drive one. Tours of the museums are available.
BUT DON’T MISS: The vineyards. We have not deviated too far from beer, but Stuttgart is located in the Neckar Valley and is a producer of high- quality wine.
Down in the city, the beautiful Schlossplatz and Schillerplatz are main squares to enjoy the buzz of the area.
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Warning: There will be fan zones here during the tournament.
Do not miss the Market Hall. It is indoors and features incredible stalls that are great for lunch, including unbelievable pretzels in the city that claims to have invented them.
Inside England's stunning five-star Euro 2024 base with robot waiters that will cost £800,000
The climate and soil here are ideal for growing and the steep hills all around city are used by small and large growers.
Unusually, a couple of minutes from the centre, you see vines growing in gardens between buildings.
As they drink most of it locally, not too much gets exported, so do not miss your chance.
At Weinmanufaktur Stuttgart — yes, literally a wine manufacturer — you can get a brilliant tour of the cellars and, whisper it, a couple of free glasses of wine, a short taxi ride out of the city.
Tip: The Sauvignon Blanc is a steal at €13.
Do not drink too much, though, as a hike up to the Sepulchral Chapel is recommended. Expect gorgeous views over Stuttgart at sunset, taking in the whole Neckar Valley.
It is also a brief walk to the city’s best-kept secret for dinner — restaurant Rotenberger Weingartle.
Here, you can sample the Swabian (local) food.
I had the amazing Swabian plate, which features slow-cooked pork in a rich wine sauce, and pasta, reminiscent of mac ’n’ cheese.
All washed down with stunning regional wine or beer as the sun sets over the valley. What football?
WHERE TO STAY: Kronenhotel, Stuttgart. Modern but family-run and a short walk to city centre. Around £100 per night including a brilliant breakfast.
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FRANKFURT
STADIUM: Deutsche Bank Park, home of Eintracht Frankfurt in Bundesliga, capacity 58,000.
Focus match: England v Denmark, June 20.
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FAMOUS FOR: It is where the German money is. The German banks are situated in Frankfurt. Oh, and sausages.
BUT DON’T MISS: The skyline is obviously impressive with the banking district high-rises dominating. But downtown Frankfurt is known as the “newest old town in the world”.
After much of the city needed to be rebuilt after World War Two, Frankfurt invested in rebuilding the Romerberg main square and surrounding area as it was before.
It is like being on the set of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, minus the Child Catcher, so taking a leisurely walk among the overhanging buildings is fantastic, with plenty of places to stop for a sausage.
I know, it is not meant to be only about beer and sausage but when in Frankfurt . . .
The cathedral is stunning and so is the amazing Carmelite Monastery.
It is a place where the monks help feed the local homeless and, incredibly, is virtually silent — only steps away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Frankfurt sits on the Rhine, so take a river cruise in the evening and enjoy a glass of local wine as the city’s buildings start to light up.
End the evening in Lorsbacher-Thal. This restaurant, a favourite with the locals (you will have to book), is not to be missed. It is place where the wealthy bankers sit alongside the locals.
It serves the city’s apple wine (which is like a flat cider that some tourists add sparkling water to) and the best schnitzel I’ve ever had.
You sit on wooden benches, tight to tables around you, while waiters fly around serving sharing starters and ceramic jugs of apfelwein.
It is buzzing and the food is everything you’d want after a day around the city.
WHERE TO STAY: Lindley Lindenberg, quirky rooms close to the river, specialising in vegan food for breakfast. Very cool rooftop bar. Around £90 per night including vegan breakfast.
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COLOGNE
STADIUM: RheinEnergie Stadium, home of FC Koln in 2. Bundesliga (second division), capacity 55,000.
Focus match: England v Slovenia, June 25.
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FAMOUS FOR: Eau du Cologne . . . but the locals prefer to think of the cathedral, a World Unesco Heritage site, and their local beer as the reasons to sniff out another visit.
BUT DON’T MISS: Standing in front of the Cologne Cathedral of St Peter and St Mary’s Chapel is a wow moment.
The Shrine of the Three Kings is here and the gothic architecture is incredible, dominating the city skyline and sitting on top of the hill, yards from the river and central station.
A walk around is a must and it was incredibly left unfinished for more than 350 years — perhaps the builders were enjoying a local beer.
Did someone say beer? OK, so this is not just supposed to be about German brews. But a trip to Cologne, or Koln, is not complete without visiting the local brauhauses.
The brauhauses are pubs where the beer is served in very small, thin “stange” rod glasses, holding only 200ml of lager.
Before you complain, this is specifically so the beer does not go flat and warm after being exposed to too much oxygen.
And before you get two-thirds down one, another one is served by waiters called kobes carrying a wreath tray of a dozen beers.
To stop them, you must put a beer mat on top of your glass! To count the beers drunk on your table, they tally up on the nearest bar mat.
Beer in Koln is unique. If — and only if — it is brewed in the city, it is called kolsch.
The atmosphere in the brauhaus is unlike anywhere else, with families playing cards and customers breaking out into impromptu singing.
There are dozens of breweries in the city. We went to one called Fruh.
Locals say Cologne “is a feeling” and I can’t disagree, as it will be the place I go back to first. Kolsch me!
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WHERE TO STAY: Lindner Hotel has large, modern rooms, is near the cathedral and has a great buffet breakfast. From £100 a night with breakfast.
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