NEXT week’s Cheltenham Festival is rightly on every horse-racing fan’s wish list.
But as James March finds there’s far more to this pretty spa town than bookies, jockeys and hot favourites.
WHY SHOULD I GO?
WHILE the horse racing is a big draw — the four-day festival starts on Tuesday and tickets are still available for selected days from £57pp (see thejockeyclub.co.uk/ cheltenham) — the town also has great cocktail bars, pubs serving hearty British fare, and free museums.
And Cheltenham calls itself the Festival Town for good reason — its year-round calendar of events including jazz, literature, music and science festivals.
ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?
CHELTENHAM is fairly flat, compact and easily walkable, with the only elevation the Cotswold Hills that rise to the east of town.
The Promenade — known locally as The Prom — is the grand centrepiece of a town lined with delightful Regency architecture, so meandering about on foot is not something to be rushed. There are some fabulous green spaces, too, such as the historic Pittville Park, Montpellier Gardens and Sandford Park.
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The racecourse is a half-hour walk away, so sharing a taxi might be the best way to get there.
The Cheltenham Spa railway station is about a mile from centre of Cheltenham but the D and E buses will whisk you into town or to the racecourse. You can get a Cheltenham DayRider all-day ticket for £4.25.
ANYTHING FOR BUCKET LIST?
IF you’ve got a ticket — and the stamina — the Cheltenham Festival horse-racing is one of the great British sporting events of the year.
The party continues late into the night as live music thumps out from pubs and bars across town — and many places open early the next day for epic breakfasts.
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The grand Pittville Pump Room is Cheltenham’s iconic last and largest spa building, and is surrounded by some stunning parkland.
Heritage tours are available — and since it’s on the way to the racecourse, they’ll open up the Shamrock Bar for some swanky pints in the grounds.
If you are after a family afternoon out, the Great Western Railway’s 28-mile steam train offers an evocative journey into the quaint Cotswolds countryside. A family ticket for two adults and up to three kids is £65.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT?
A WARM welcome is guaranteed within the ivy-clad walls of Tailors Eating House, on Cambray Place, and with 18 TV screens it’s a lively spot for watching the racing.
Sunday roasts here are famously good, and my delicious fillet steak was cooked to perfection.
During racing week they put up a marquee outside and fire up a BBQ to serve sizzling burgers and hotdogs every evening.
Right across the street, the jungle-themed Mr Cambrays Curiosity is a quirky new cafe offering great sweet treats including millionaire shortbread.
A short walk north is the Brewery Quarter, a sleek modern parade crisscrossed by fairylights and home to splendid Asian options such as Mowgli and Pho.
I FANCY A DRINK . . .
CHELTENHAM boasts cracking pubs, but the Bottle of Sauce might be the pick of them, thanks to an airy courtyard with spacious Oktoberfest-style benches.
It serves everything from IPAs to stouts and its creative cocktails will not set you back more than £8.50. Best of all, on Thirsty Thursdays, cocktails are only £6 each between 5pm and 11pm.
For more exclusive bars, head over to the Montpellier area of town for stylish cocktails at the Urban Fox or laidback whiskies at John Gordons.
And since it’s located right by the train station, I couldn’t resist a crisp pint of hometown hero Deya Brewery’s classic Steady Rolling Man — perfect for one last nightcap after a day at the races.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
CHELTENHAM’S easy walkability means there are plenty of hotels that work well as a base for your break, but No38 The Park would be my top pick.
Not only is it just a 15-minute walk from the racecourse and less than ten minutes from the town centre, this elegant Georgian townhouse is also set in a picturesque parkside location — so ticks all of the boxes.
The lounge has cloud-like sofas, tubular chandeliers and cool coffee-table books to browse through, while the smart restaurant features a secluded terrace.
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The rooms have kingsize beds, standalone bathtubs and swish high ceilings and windows, and they cost from around around £100 per night. See no38thepark.com.
The Cheltenham Festival is all about style, so why not flash a little cash on your hotel too?
GO: CHELTENHAM
STAYING THERE: Normally, rooms at No.38 The Park cost from around around £100 per night. See no38thepark.com.
Cheltenham Racecourse Festival runs for four days from this Tuesday.
Tickets available for selected days, priced from £57pp. See thejockeyclub.co.uk/cheltenham.