I live in a much-loved Devon seaside resort – it has hidden gem beaches and pubs that few know about

MENTION you live in Woolacombe to people and nine times out of ten their eyes light up.

“I used to go there as a kid’, they say, misty-eyed at the memory of buckets and spades, fish and chips, and 99 ice creams.

It’s still as popular today for family holidays, with three miles of golden sand lined with beach huts – but there is a way to avoid the crowds.

Having lived here for more than twenty years, I know that if you venture a little further afield, there is even more spectacular scenery to be had off the beaten track. 

Walk along the Esplanade and drop down onto Barricane Beach, a sheltered cove made from millions of crushed sea shells.

Here you can watch the sun set with the local in-crowd and enjoy a plate of Sri Lankan curry from the café.

Wander up to Mortehoe where the coast path to Lee holds many hidden delights.

Stock up on pasties and perhaps a can of craft cider from the village stores and head past the church.

Its spectacular cliff-top cemetery hosts the graves of unknown sailors who met their fate on the treacherous rocks off what was known as ‘Death Point’.

As you walk along the cliffs, you might be lucky enough to spot a seal or two basking on the rocks below.

You’ll pass Rockham Beach, a veritable Famous Five of an inlet with rockpools abounding – sadly now inaccessible as the steps have been washed away twice in winter storms.

Head past Bullpoint Lighthouse – now self-catering accommodation in a breath-taking position– and further on to Bennet’s Mouth.

It’s too dangerous to swim here, but it’s the perfect place to perch on a rock, devour your purchases and enjoy watching the waves come crashing in.

It’s another couple of miles on to the picturesque Woody Bay, reached by climbing down a vertiginous flight of steps or cutting through a rocky corridor from Lee Bay.

Both of these are ideal for a dip, or if conditions are right and the sea is flat, indulging in a spot of paddle- boarding or kayaking.

Have a pitstop at the Grampus Inn, with its pretty beer garden, range of real ales and an impressive wine list.

Their Friday night open mic nights are legendary.

The more intrepid could carry on to the Victorian resort of Ilfracombe, where a visit to Tunnels Beaches is a must.

The tunnels were carved through the rocks in the 1820s, and you can bathe safely in the tidal pool. You could even get married here if the fancy takes you!

Head down to the quay and indulge in a magnificent seafood platter from S and P Fish – lobster, crab, king prawns – washed down with a bottle of crisp white wine.

You can watch the boats coming in and out of the harbour, take a tour of the RNLI lifeboat station or book a boat trip to Lundy Island.

Further along is the recently opened Lime Kiln, a dog friendly
café with an enticing menu and spacious waterside terrace.

At the Watersports Hub in Larkstone Cove, Coastal Swim Coaching can help you gain confidence with open water swimming and might even take you to one of their secret dipping spots.

Finish up with an ice cream under the controversial statue installed by Damien Hirst, and decide what you think. I’m Team Verity all the way!

Veronica Henry’s The Secret Beach will be published in hardback from February 29 and paperback in June 2024.