I did a European Christmas market campervan holiday – it was warm and almost everything was included in the cost
CHESTNUTS are roasting on an open fire and there’s frivolity in the air as visitors to Heinzels Wintermärchen in Cologne sip steaming mugs of Glühwein.
They stand in a make-believe Alpine ski chalet, vintage skating boots hanging from the ceiling amid tinsel and twinkly lights.
Other visitors to the Christmas market — just one of 12 in the German city — play a convivial game of curling, minus the kitchen mops, while children skate on the open-air ice rink beside.
The guy selling roasted chestnuts has competition. There are stalls selling salmon (smoking on an open fire), flammenkuchen, rösti, pancakes and steaming hot giant saucepans of stew-like concoctions for a winter’s day.
I wander from stall to stall, and market to market, picking up souvenirs at the Weihnachtsmarkt beside the colossal cathedral then viewing its twin spires from the top of the ferris wheel at the Harbour Christmas Market.
That’s after I’ve enjoyed hot chocolate and waffles at the Chocolat Grand Café overlooking the Rhine.
READ MORE ON CHRISTMAS BREAKS
You’d think, perhaps, that I took a flight from the UK to get to Cologne and an overnight stay in a city centre hotel. But no.
I’m on a winter camping trip, staying in my snuggly warm campervan at Camping Vinkenhof, a site just across the border, in the Netherlands.
And, having spent the past few weeks touring Europe independently as a solo female traveller, I’m delighted to have the company of others for four days.
I’ve joined a Christmas Markets Tour, an escorted group event organised by the Caravan and Motorhome Club where everything except the travel from port to campsite and touring caravan or motorhome is included.
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I’m in my baby campervan. Others among the 20 guests have brought their motorhomes big and small, while our lovely tour hosts, Brian and Janet, are staying in their caravan.
For those that don’t have their own unit to cosy up in, the Club can arrange motorhome hire through its brand, Experience Freedom ().
The group is greeted by our tour hosts with a glass of Glühwein (that’s mulled wine) and nibbles at the campsite bar.
There’s then a different city to visit on each day, each renowned for its Christmas markets, with transport to and from the campsite provided.
Illuminated sculptures
And each day is your own to do with as you please — there’s no pressure to wander around as a group.
Among the markets in Cologne, I get to visit the impressive cathedral and take a riverside walk along the Rhine on the first day.
Day two includes a visit to Valkenburg, south Netherlands. It’s marketed as “Christmas Town”, hosting several markets in underground caves carved out by quarrying the local marlstone.
Each has twinkling Christmas trees and giant illuminated sculptures, perfect for selfies.
There’s also a chance to ride a chairlift to the top of the Heunsberg. It’s by no means a mountain, but there are fine views from the hilltop over the pretty town.
Valkenburg’s castle — now ruins — was the only one in the Netherlands to be built on a hilltop.
In the evening, there is a chance to watch the twice-weekly Christmas Fairytale parade of decorated floats, with a wave from Father Christmas as he passes by my grandstand seat at one of the many restaurants along the route.
The escorted tour concludes with a day at the Christmas market in Aachen, which celebrates its 50th birthday this year.
It’s famous for its gingerbread, Printen, unique to the city and available to purchase throughout the market.
In the evening, we’re treated to a delicious three-course meal with drinks at the onsite restaurant at Camping Vinkenhof, for a celebratory communal evening.
I’m used to camping and touring alone. Many of the other guests that are on this escorted tour are used to travelling independently, too.
But, as several explained to me, they also like the camaraderie of a group escorted camping tour, and that transport and bookings are organised to and from the markets.
For those nervous of travelling solo or as a couple, escorted caravan and motorhome tours can provide the confidence to tour the world with like-minded guests in a secure environment.
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Santa might tour in his sleigh, but I’m happy with my campervan.
Reindeers are optional extras.
GO: CHRISTMAS MARKETS TOUR
GETTING/STAYING THERE: A four-night Christmas Markets Tour with the Caravan and Motorhome Club costs £779 for an outfit (caravan, campervan, or motorhome) plus two people. See .
The nearest airport to the campsite is Cologne. Ryanair flies from Bristol, Stansted and Manchester from £14.99 each way.
See .