The under-the-radar Spanish beach resort with cheap flights and 20C weather
YOU are probably familiar with Spain’s Costa Del Sol hot spots Torremolinos, Malaga and Marbella. But Nerja? Less likely.
Pronounced Ner-ha, the former fishing village, backed by the Sierra Almijara, lies around 50 minutes’ drive east of Malaga and is a little more under-the-radar than its built-up neighbours.
Attracted by cheap flights, the promise of 20C days and claims that it is one of the most scenic resorts on the Andalusian coast, I flew in for a long weekend of sun, sea and sangria this winter.
The picturesque town is home to a number of beaches, the best of which is Blue Flag Burriana, famed for its kilometre of soft sand, clear water and lively restaurants.
Even when I visited in low season it had a buzz, with games of volleyball on the beach and paddleboarders gliding across the sparkling sea.
A short stroll from the beach took me to Balcon de Europa, an expansive, cliffside promontory with mountain and sea views and the 17th-century Church of El Salvador.
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It’s the heart of the town and locals and tourists linger here long into the night; buskers play, ice cream parlours open late and cool bars, like Cochran’s Terrace, serve tempting cocktails.
What’s really great is that it’s delightfully warm, even in winter, plus the atmosphere is charming and unmistakably Spanish, with all ages congregating to create the magic.
When it comes to Spain, of course, good food is to be expected and there are so many great places to eat in Nerja that you’ll almost certainly be loosening your belt by mid-holiday.
As I walked along the seafront I spotted Chiringuito Mauri, a rustic beachside restaurant serving smoked sardines and paella cooked on a converted fishing boat. It’s a great option if you fancy something easy and local, dished up in an informal setting.
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Another great option for paella is Jimmy’s by Burriana Beach.
A resident tipped me off about the mouthwatering one served there.
And they weren’t wrong, it’s delectable.
There’s also Mena Garden, tucked away down a side street off Balcon de Europa, which is one of the prettiest places in town for lunch — think delicious salads served open-air beside a fountain and wall of roses.
And further down the boardwalk is Rincon del Sol, a stylish restaurant and beach club offering local snacks like garlic octopus, best enjoyed at sunset with a glass of sangria.
How about dessert? For the town’s top ice cream, hit Valenciano. Every flavour imaginable is available, from Ferrero Rocher to bubblegum and marshmallow, and they even dip the cone in chocolate for the ultimate indulgence.
I was staying at Hotel Balcón de Europa, around a 25-minute walk along the seafront from the centre of town.
Suites sleep four and boast a lounge, small kitchen, two bedrooms and balcony — perfect for families or groups of friends.
Things to love include the small spa, sandy beach with plenty of loungers and excellent buffets, including grilled fish, lavish salads and tasty roasts.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the same restaurant — bag a seat in the conservatory for a lighter, brighter vibe.
A word of warning, the vast swimming pool with a bridge to the beach looks enticing but is icy cold.
It took Wim Hof-style breath work to even attempt getting in and, when I eventually took the plunge, I didn’t last more than ten minutes.
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Thankfully the sea was a bit warmer, even in November.
If you’re looking to stay somewhere more intimate in the centre of town, Casitas Select’s private, whitewashed villas are sure to float your boat.
GO: Nerja, Spain
GETTING THERE: Flights from Luton to Malaga from £14.99 each way.
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STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Hotel Balcon de Europa are from £52 per night (see ), while a two-person villa at Casitas Select villas is from £34 per night (see ).