Inside the stunning exotic island with deserted beaches, turquoise waters and a very famous local
“HAKUNA matata!” was how the immigration official with a huge smile greeted me at Zanzibar airport.
I laughed with him, assuming this was just some joke they roll out every time a Western tourist arrives.
But no.
Outside the terminal, the Swahili greeting made famous by Disney’s The Lion King was carved into a huge sign for everyone’s benefit.
Then I heard it from the taxi driver when I apologetically told him I needed to get all the way to the other end of the island (but, then, he would say that, wouldn’t he?).
And again when I was enthusiastically greeted at the Emerald Resort about an hour later.
read more on travel
It’s no mickey-take.
“Hakuna matata” (no problem) and “jambo” (hello) were welcoming phrases I was to hear over and over during my week’s stay on this stunning African island.
The warmth with which I was greeted was genuine and universal — from the barman trying out his own cocktail creations as I chilled out before dinner, to the gardener snipping away at the perfectly manicured foliage framing the spotlessly clean hotel grounds.
It offers the perfect environment for a relaxing stay which, let’s face it, is exactly what you’re looking for in a five-star tropical resort with breathtaking views over the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.
Most read in Beach holidays
And that view never gets boring, whether you are enjoying it from the large main pool area (including infinity pool), Jacuzzis on a nearby terrace, your own room (if you book the right category), outdoor table while enjoying a leisurely breakfast or from the hotel’s own shaded sunbeds that line the beach below.
Still not chilled enough?
The Emerald’s spa, tucked away next to the 24-hour gym on the peaceful fringes of the resort, offers a myriad of wondrous massage experiences along with facials, manicures and so on.
The spa also features an adult-only pool and Jacuzzi area, with sauna and steam room.
And although this is a venue that works equally well for a honeymoon, family holiday or chilled break with mates, there is no noise or hubbub to escape from.
When I stayed, the hotel was at 80 per cent capacity and yet it felt a long way below that.
That’s perhaps not surprising with so many places to chill out or have fun — not least an absolutely epic kids’ club complete with arcade games — and so many things to do away from the hotel if you choose.
The most obvious place to start is the ocean.
Giant tortoises
The hotel has its own dive centre and beginners can have scuba lessons in one of the hotel pools, so that residents get the chance to explore the nearby coral reefs teeming with Attenborough-esque levels of wildlife.
A snorkelling trip will give you just as good a view if you are not into diving, though, and you will feel like you are swimming through your own personal aquarium, with thousands of brightly coloured fish swimming right up to your face. (I really wish I’d bought an underwater camera!)
There is also the chance to be in the water with dolphins, swimming alongside them if you can get out of the boat quickly enough.
Or, more likely, see them glide below as you float on the ocean’s surface listening to their clicks and whistles.
There are several excursion packages to choose from, and of course there is watersport fun on offer too if you are the energetic type who wants to try kitesurfing or kayaking.
The beach — pretty much deserted apart from guests of the hotel and local vendors — is also worth exploring at low tide, with starfish, crabs and fish easy to find in the rock pools beyond the expansive golden sands.
It is worth exploring the island itself, including a tour of Stone Town, the oldest part of Zanzibar’s capital.
You will take in atmospheric spice markets, historic landmarks and — perhaps the island’s biggest claim to fame among British visitors — the birthplace of Queen frontman Freddie Mercury.
From Stone Town it is a short boat trip across to Prison Island, where you can feed the giant tortoises in the sanctuary, including one that is 197 years old.
Back at the hotel, having worked up an appetite, there are three restaurants to choose between for dinner.
There is the usual, though high-standard, buffet dinner in Aqua, or you can reserve a table (as many times as you like during your stay) at Carnivorous, which is meaty, as the name suggests, or Asiatique, which offers a teppanyaki experience that is entertaining and delicious in equal measure.
Slots at the restaurants, day trips, water sports and spa experiences are all easily booked on the hotel app, which staff will guide you through on check-in.
Then it is time to chill in the warm evening air with a cocktail, the reflection of the moon dancing on the ocean waves below the hotel.
It is worth noting that, due to its tropical location, you will need a few jabs to visit Zanzibar and it is recommended to take anti-malarials with you, though the island is almost malaria-free and I saw only one mosquito over a whole week.
And now is the time to visit, as February through to June is rainy season.
READ MORE SUN STORIES
But then again, rain just means there is more opportunity to go and get a massage or try one of those delicious new cocktails the bar staff are concocting.
After all, as they (really do) say in Zanzibar, hakuna matata.
GO: ZANZIBAR
GETTING/STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the Emerald Zanzibar Resort & Spa is from £1,275pp, including flights with Kenya Airways and private transfers. See southalltravel.co.uk
