The European city break with a magical greeting and Harry Potter-style attraction

ALONG with the other passengers, I jump up from my train seat and rush to the window to see what all the fuss is about.

I’m just in time to catch a glimpse of a white-haired man standing on a hill in the Alps, proudly waving a huge Swiss flag above his head.

The conductors tell us that for years, Xavier has greeted tourists this way on every train that passes through.

The Gotthard Panorama Express is the perfect way to soak up views as you travel through this landlocked country.

With Switzerland, we often imagine ski holidays on snowy slopes, but spring sees the pistes burst into life with lush green pastures replacing all that ice.

Our cameras snap away at aqua-blue lakes and chocolate-box Alpine villages among green valleys.

We are travelling up to Lucerne in central Switzerland from Ticino, the most southern and sunny region.

As I devour a pistachio ice cream on the waterfront of Lake Maggiore, the holiday feeling sinks in.

While there are hotels aplenty in the town of Locarno, including the only 4H one — Hotel Belvedere — for those watching their holiday pounds, there are budget options too, with campsites just a short walk from the centre on the shores of the lake and the Maggia river.

Later, I visit the Termali Salini and Spa where for £30 you can enjoy the lake and mountain views all day from the edge of an infinity pool or soak in natural salt water pools.

The contemporary spa also includes saunas and steam baths as well as a host of treatments and massages.

It was a taste of luxury after a day walking around gardens in bloom.

The most spectacular is Brissago Islands, or the “floating gardens”, where 1,700 plants, including bamboo and palm trees, grow in a climate similar to Chile, western Australia and the Med.

Further south we took a trip to the city of Lugano, where the Gotthard Panorama Express starts.

It certainly has an opulent feel, with cobbled streets lined with designer shops.

A stroll through the gardens of Parco Ciani is free and we enjoyed pastries from the local bakery while admiring the waterfront views over Lake Lugano.

Similar to bridge leading to Hogwarts

A short drive away is the charming village of Morcote. We wandered through narrow alleys that wind down toward Lake Lugano, marvelling at how quiet it was.

Morcote’s greatest attraction is Parco Scherrer, another surprisingly sub-tropical garden that ascends up a hill.

Its views are well worth the steps and there is a fascinating collection of flora and fauna and artwork and sculptures, too.

As I devoured a pizza (and glass of red) at Ristorante della Torre on the waterfront, it felt like I was on the Amalfi Coast of Italy. In fact, you can see Italy just across the lake.

That’s the uniqueness of Switzerland. Surrounded by other European nations, it’s a mosaic of culture that is impossible to get bored of.

Depending on where you stay, the Swiss will speak French, German and Italian. So expect to be lost for words if moving between areas where languages switch.

After our train journey from Lugano, we arrive in the centre of Switzerland, in the German-speaking city of Lucerne, fringed by mountains and on the shores of yet another glistening lake.

The Chapel Bridge takes centre stage of this compact city, which looks almost untouched from medieval times.

The bridge dates back to the 14th century and is strikingly similar to that seen leading to Hogwarts in Harry Potter. It is thought to be one of the oldest covered wooden bridges in Europe.

Locals say it is the most picturesque landmark of Switzerland, especially during the summer when its flowerbeds have been planted with thousands of geraniums.

Historic houses decorated with frescoes line the picturesque town square as well as the car-free old town.