Head to St Lucia and take a trip to the world’s ONLY drive-in volcano
“WE CALL that liquid sunshine, here,” our taxi driver said with a chuckle, peering up at the sky.
A sudden burst of torrential rain had interrupted the glorious sunshine, furiously pounding against the car for a moment, until the glowing sun broke through once more.
These cloudbursts are common here in Saint Lucia — and they are just a small part of what makes this island paradise so special.
My wife, Charlotte, and I were on our way to Sulphur Springs, the world’s ONLY drive-in volcano, set in Soufriere (French for sulphur), on the island’s west coast.
Our 80-minute taxi ride had taken us through the bustling capital of Castries and the colourful fishing village, Anse La Raye, before winding past the lush Piton Mountains and driving straight through the dormant volcano, which sits in the crust of a collapsed crater.
People travel from all over the island to take a dip in the bubbling pools here, famed for their skin-rejuvenating properties — despite what the eggy smell may have you think.
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Stripped to our swimming gear, we were presented with two buckets of fresh, steaming volcanic mud — one dark and one light — and told to get creative.
We unleashed our inner artists, using each other’s bodies as a canvas. And we could get as messy as we liked, knowing our mud-slinging antics would soon be washed away in the soothing hot springs and Toraille Waterfall nearby.
If mud baths and bubbling springs aren’t enough relaxation for you, there are plenty more soothing rituals to get stuck into at Bay Gardens Beach Resort and Spa in Rodney Bay.
Set on the golden sands of Reduit Beach in the north, the resort’s La Mer Spa provides tranquil respite from the heat of the sun.
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We indulged in a couples’ massage, which did not disappoint, but those looking to really push the boat out can opt for a three-hour Island Bliss package, which includes a massage, body scrub and facial, followed by a manicure and pedicure.
The resort is also home to Splash Island Water Park — an open-water, inflatable obstacle course complete with swings, slides, a trampoline and climbing wall — think TV show, Wipeout.
Two minutes into the challenge I was gasping for air and being fished out by my giggling wife . . . Never mind Wipeout, this felt more like SAS: Who Dares Wins!
When you’ve had your fill of fun, head to the Hi Tide restaurant overlooking the beach, which serves up traditional dishes such as mahi-mahi fish, goat curry, yams and salted banana mash — a lot more delicious than it sounds.
It’s a great place to drink in the idyllic sunset and sip on a Lucian Mudslide, a boozy banana milkshake, which soon became a firm favourite.
BOOZY MILKSHAKE
For food lovers, there are plenty more experiences elsewhere on the island to get the taste buds going.
Overlooked by the Piton Mountains, Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Hotel boasts 25 private eco lodges, plus a classy restaurant and bar.
The Rabot estate, set in the rainforest of a Unesco World Heritage site, is also home to Saint Lucia’s oldest working cacao farm and Project Chocolat — an immersive Tree-to-Bar experience that takes you behind the chocolate-making process, from growing cacao beans to becoming the bars sold in stores today.
Walking through the rainforest canopy, we gazed up at the impressive reddish, orange and green pods dangling from the branches overhead.
GO: ST LUCIA
COVID: Fully vaccinated travellers must provide proof of a negative lateral flow test, administered by a healthcare provider and taken within one day of arrival, or a PCR test, taken within five days of arrival.
Unvaccinated holidaymakers must provide proof of a negative PCR test, taken within five days of entering St Lucia, and must self-isolate in certified accommodation for 14 days upon arrival. GETTING THERE: Virgin Atlantic Airways flies from Heathrow to Hewanorra from £479pp return. See .
STAYING THERE: Bay Gardens Beach Resort and Spa in Rodney Bay .
OUT & ABOUT: A Sulphur Springs tour of the Soufriere volcano, mud baths and hot springs is from £8.27pp. The Saint Lucia National Trust charges £6.09 ($8) entry to Pigeon Island. A Snuba experience on Pigeon Island costs £66.87pp.
A Project Chocolat experience is from £90.60pp ($119), including lunch. See
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Then we got to sample the goods by channelling our inner Willy Wonkas to make our own bars of chocolate. Though grinding up cacao nibs, cacao butter and icing sugar in a piping hot pestle required some elbow grease.
Then it was off to the cacao-based streetfood market which served goodies of cacao BBQ wings, chocolate mash and chicken roti. Bellies full of chocolatey treats, we headed to Pigeon Island, a national landmark.
Now attached to the mainland, it is home to secluded beaches, incredible views of Rodney Bay and some fascinating historic walking trails.
It is here that history buffs can marvel at the remnants of impressive forts, including Fort Rodney, built in 1778, when the British and French were going toe-to-toe.
For those that aren’t that fussed by the history, the island is also a great place to Snuba — a cross between scuba and snorkelling. Instead of being strapped to your back, the air canister is placed on a raft with long tubes attached to your breathing apparatus.
WILLY WONKAS
The marine life here is dazzling and our instructor Lydelle helped us identify the various tropical fish from the Spotted Drum and Queen Parrotfish to the Blue Tang, which kids would recognise as Dory from Finding Nemo.
There’s plenty more wildlife to spot on land too, and that’s just how we ended our trip, on a rainforest trek in the Babonneau region. Our intrepid group of six were ushered up the Jacquot Trail (named after the Jacquot Parrot) where we wandered through a tangled mass of green trees.
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Birds swooped overhead while our guide delved into the details of the island’s flora and fauna.
With beautiful scenery, indulgent food and plenty of adventure, it’s not hard to see why St Lucia has stolen the hearts of the young and old as well as families and honeymooners.