Explore mountain village life in Cyprus and try marvellous meze
HIGH in the Troodos Mountains, it is as if time has stood still.
The village of Omodos is a rustic Cypriot gem, a jumble of weathered stone houses with carved wooden balconies, narrow cobbled streets and an ancient monastery.
The welcoming white awnings of the many tavernas that line the sun-bleached streets are ready and waiting to tempt you with marvellous meze.
We had strolled the streets, stopped off to admire the Greek Orthodox church and sampled Cypriot wines in the bustling village square.
And we hit the jackpot when we spotted the checked tablecloths outside the Black Geese taverna.
The meze featured all the favourites, from juicy lamb chops and fragrant sausages to a fantastic wine stew and moussaka, all washed down with local wines pressed from the grapes of the mountain vineyards we could see from the terrace.
Don’t miss the chance to head inside and down into their wine cellar — with a huge range of local tipples as well as whiskies and cigars.
It was the highlight of our day exploring the mountain villages and wineries — a chance to escape the heat of the coast and breathe fresh mountain air as we explored the interior with its verdant forests, vineyards and stunning views.
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Our guide Alexia had earlier shown us the spectacular archaeological site of Kourion.
The well-preserved ruins show an entire Roman settlement, but the most incredible part is the Roman theatre that is still used for performances to this day.
At the Ktima Gerolemo winery, on the outskirts of Omodos, our charismatic host Charilaos topped up glasses with six superb local wines as we admired views over the vineyards.
Of course, Cyprus’ coast-line is just as captivating — and we had the perfect base.
The fabulous 5H Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites in Paphos sit beside a palm-lined beach and you know they will deliver some-thing special from the moment you enter the lobby.
There’s no queuing at reception to check in, and you’re escorted to a lovely lounge and offered a glass of champagne while you go through the formalities.
Our room proved just as big a hit. It’s an all-suites hotel and ours came with a special extra — a terrace and infinity plunge pool, looking out over the main pool.
Not all the rooms come with this fantastic addition, but they are all very spacious, with marble bathrooms and large balconies and the majority overlook the beautiful main pool area and the beach.
The two freshwater pools are surrounded by plush loungers — and if you’re in a plunge-pool room, you get complimentary access to cabanas on the beach.
When you are ready for a sea dip, the hotel’s little pier reaching out into the lagoon is a great place to dive into the crystal-clear waters.
You can even request a romantic dinner for two there.
The main restaurant, Estia, offers substantial buffet breakfasts and themed evening meals, with the option to eat al fresco. There’s also outdoor dining at lunch by the pool, as well as an a-la-carte restaurant for dinner.
But our favourite was Kymata, right on the seafront. It offers Mediterranean specialities with superb service and great views.
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The stellar cuisine then continued after we set out to explore Paphos itself.
We spent a morning at the Paphos Archaelogical Park where sites and monuments dating from 4BC to the Middle Ages are being uncovered.
Most remarkable are the intricate mosaic floors of four Roman villas, depicting scenes of Greek mythology.
Nearby we lunched at the Theos fish restaurant, right on the harbour front. Popular with the locals, it serves up treats fresh from the sea including grilled lobster and octopus as well as sea bream — served with perfectly cooked vegetables.
By night. we soaked up the buzzing atmosphere in Paphos Old Town.
While there’s plenty of choice, and good-value drinks on the classic Bar Street, head farther into the beautifully renovated Old Town and, down alleys and lanes, you can discover some really cool cocktail bars where the locals chill.
Favourites included Mr Tippler, with its craft beers and gorgeous courtyard — and super-sophisticated Soho 79.
We celebrated the end of a superb week with a return visit to one of our favourite Paphos restaurants.
The St George’s Tavern serves up never-ending meze dishes — each one grown, dried or pickled by owner George and his family.
They’ll keep presenting you with helping after helping of superb seasonal creations — and will only stop when you finally admit defeat and can’t manage any more.
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It’s good value at around 25 euros per person — but just make sure you don’t fill up on the delicious homemade bread and dips because there’s far more to come.
Our week in Cyprus delivered on all fronts — an amazing hotel, great food and drink and the very best of coast and countryside.
GO: Cyprus
COVID: No restrictions for fully-vaccinated visitors. Unvaccinated visitors over the age of 12 must provide a certificate of recovery from Covid, must take a PCR test within 72 hours of departure or antigen test within 24 hours of departure and then take another PCR test on arrival and self-isolate until you get the result, normally within three hours.
GETTING / STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ B&B in a Junior Suite B&B at the 5H Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel is from £1,049pp including flights from Gatwick in May and private transfers.
To book, call 01924 380 160 or visit .