Try a new type of glamping and soak up the rich history of the Sussex countryside
GAZING at the flames of our wood burner, keeping the tent toasty as darkness falls on the Sussex countryside, we wonder how King Harold must have felt when he camped near this spot on October 13, 1066.
Certainly his field would have been busier. All we can see outside is a canopy of stars and the flickering fire from our nearest neighbour’s teepee 50 yards away - Harold would have surveyed 8,000 English troops preparing to confront Norman invaders massing across the valley.
And, if the Bayeux Tapestry is to be believed, His Medieval Majesty didn’t have a camper van. Which makes our position infinitely preferable to that of a newly-crowned king facing bloody annihilation in the most famous battle in history. One in the eye, Harold!
With the Covid pandemic wrecking several attempts to take a family holiday abroad, we had settled on a camping staycation, putting our beloved eight-year-old VW California van to good use for a few days.
The ‘Hotel Du Van’ comfortably sleeps two adults and a couple of small kids, but with our two now 19 and 14 we need a lot more room or risk us all killing each other in a grumpy, Hastings-esque bloodbath.
So we arrange the loan of a Glawning - glamping awning, geddit? - a beautiful 5-metre bell tent which attaches to our van, creating a vast living space/teenager’s bedroom complete with wood-burning stove which sits inside the tent, defying concerns about health and safety thanks to a clever chimney setup and flame-retardant tent canvas.
A search for campsites with last-minute availability turns up Glottenham Castle, a hidden gem at Robertsbridge, East Sussex, five miles from Battle where William of Normandy defeated Harold’s forces and became King of England.
Glottenham’s medieval castle was removed in the 16th Century, leaving ample room for an attractive and spacious campsite with pre-erected glamping options for those who want a bit more luxury.
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We camp in the Family Field, a huge meadow between two streams but allowing just 12 pitches, giving each group plenty of space to spread out. Facilities are basic, with compost loos, an open-air shower and camp shop which has fire pits to rent and wood to burn on them. So we arrive well stocked with food and essentials.
Setting up the Glawning is surprisingly easy, only taking about 20 minutes thanks to a YouTube instruction video and one teenager offering (minimal) help and refreshments.
The tent is connected to the van via a “tunnel” which can easily separate from the vehicle, enabling us to drive off for the day and leave the Glawning behind. Upon return we just reattach it and we have our living room back.
We pimp up the tent with fairy lights, chairs and cushions and it’s instantly a bright, inviting space which would satisfy the most discerning glamper.
The heavy rain of the previous few weeks has finally subsided and the field is bathed in sunshine as we cook dinner on the barbecue and plan the next day’s exploration.
Battle’s Abbey and Battlefield, run by English Heritage, are a ten-minute drive. There’s an interactive exhibition and film show telling the 1066 story, plus audio tours.
If you want another, highly energetic Battle of Hastings fix, there’s a newly regenerated 1066 Country Walk, covering 31 miles between Pevensey (William’s landing site), Battle, Winchelsea and Rye - a beautiful medieval town worth exploring.
The walk contains artworks by local sculptor Keith Pettit, information panels and new signage and can be joined at any stage. There are numerous places to stop and some great food options along the way.
Hastings itself wasn’t the actual site of the battle or the invaders’ landing point, so its claim to fame is a little tenuous. But it did become home to the largest beach-launched fishing fleet in Europe. In your face, William the Conqueror.
That legacy is seen in the Old Town’s most famous landmark - the thirty or so towering black wooden net huts, used to store the fleet’s equipment. They are such an important part of the seaside story here, they are now Grade II listed.
We stroll along The Stade, as the shingle beach is known, stopping to buy prawns at one of the many seafood stalls along the promenade.
A newer wooden black building houses the Hastings Contemporary art gallery, built in 2012 to mirror the net huts. We pop in to see an exhibition of illustrator Quentin Blake’s work. Blake lives in the Old Town and has a long association with the gallery. There is also a fabulous display of seascapes and artwork used to advertise traditional seaside towns throughout the 20th Century. Both are open to the public until late October.
Opposite the gallery is the more colourful Old Town. This is peppered with Tudor wood-frame buildings, now home to quirky boutiques and antique shops. You could easily spend a day navigating the High Street.
A charming Victorian funicular railway, the steepest in the UK, takes visitors from the Old Town up the East Hill Cliff to Hastings Country Park. The park is a beautiful expanse of ancient woodland with breathtaking coastal views. Inventor John Logie Baird is said to have thought of how to make television work whilst walking in the park, so we have a lot to thank it for.
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We walk back at sea level along the promenade. Four-story, slightly dishevelled Edwardian homes face out to sea until Hastings becomes St Leonards-on-Sea. Here, independent art galleries, cool boutiques and furniture stores are popping up between charity shops. A sure sign of revival of a traditional old seaside town.
We loop back to Hastings’ Victorian Pier and end the day watching the sunset from Britain’s biggest beer garden. While toasting a fun day at the seaside we wonder: If William HAD come ashore here and encountered this vast boozer, would his troops ever have made it to Battle?
GO: HASTINGS
STAYING THERE: Glottenham Castle’s summer campsite has pitches from £35 per night. There are also glamping yurts and cottages. See glottenham.com.
MORE INFO: The glawning – a canvas drive-away awning – comes in a variety of sizes based on your van with prices to buy from £599. Buying a stove costs from £239. See glawning.com.
