Enjoy golden sandy beaches and sip cocktails in Sal, Cape Verde – kitesurfing capital of the world
SAL in Cape Verde is a little on the gusty side.
It is one of ten islands that make up a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Senegal, the West African nation regularly buffeted by trade winds blowing off the Sahara.
But it’s those draughts that helped to form the island’s golden sandy beaches and it’s what makes Sal the kitesurfing capital of the world.
“Wind,” as supercool Italian instructor Fabio points out, “is the engine of our sport”. And boy does this motor have some kick.
I was face down on the beach in a matter of minutes as the small practice kite I was flying pulled me over.
Staying at the adults-only Robinson Club Cabo Verde had given me the opportunity for a crash course in this daunting but exhilarating sport.
Be warned, though, favoured by billionaires, it’s not the easiest of hobbies to get into. You’ll need an entire day just flying a kite on land before you so much as dip a toe in the water.
My three-hour taster session had me on my knees getting yanked about by a practice kite.
I was learning the ropes as to how the wind moves, while trying to keep the kite in the air and my feet firmly on the ground.
For those of you who aren’t aqua daredevils, there’s plenty more to keep you occupied.
'FLYING FISH LIKE MUTANT DRAGONFLIES'
A sedate cruise on the Soldade catamaran to the bay beneath Monte Leao is a magnificent way to spend half a day.
Lying on a beanbag in the sunshine watching flying fish emerge from the surf like mutant dragonflies is quite the phenomenon.
In the bay itself, take a dip in the ocean, or see baby loggerhead turtles.
Alternatively, just lie back on deck sipping caipirinha cocktails made with the local sugarcane spirit known as “grog”, while tropicbirds soar above, their otherworldly tail streamers trailing them like ad banners from a plane. It’s close to paradise.
The return journey has a carnival vibe, as the friendly crew — led by lion-haired Sarah and man mountain “Little” Kenny — produce a samba spectacular. Unsuspecting passengers, inhibitions lowered by grog, are roped into the dances.
There can’t be many other ways to have so much fun at sea.
The resort itself is only a 15-minute walk up the pristine beach from the town of Santa Maria, which is worth exploring for a taste of the local culture.
In the mornings, the pier throbs with women gutting a wide variety of fish including barracuda, tuna and some bright blue and orange specimens nobody could name.
Venturing into town — a collection of pretty buildings in pastel shades — demands more fortitude.
The streets are dominated by people desperate to get you to buy their souvenirs.
Their sales pitches are relentless. Once you’ve agreed to buy, be prepared to haggle. And haggle hard.
When I agreed to buy a necklace as a present for my wife, the price I was quoted was 6,500 Cape Verdean escudos, which works out at £45. He eventually accepted my offer of about £14.
Another guy wanted 4,500 (£31) for a cheaply made T-shirt.
It was emblazoned with the national motto, “No stress”, and I had to tell him that his sales technique was in direct contradiction to the slogan. (Back home, said T-shirt faded and shrank on its first wash). Otherwise, the motto holds true.
Indeed, on our arrival we were informed that the whole of Cape Verde was without internet. But everyone just cracked on.
What would have caused riots in the UK was met with a “No stress” from everyone.
GO: CAPE VERDE
STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at Robinson Club Cabo Verde is from £510pp based on two sharing.
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GETTING THERE: Flights from London to Sal are from £205pp with TUI.
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The all-inclusive aspect aids this. Robinson Club takes care of everything, the buffet ranged from fine to fabulous, while the specialist tapas restaurant Pousada a real treat — particularly the juicy, peppery Galician pork.
You can indulge in a massage treatment at the WellFit spa then settle down on the beach front every afternoon for the daily sundowner — a chance to enjoy an ice-cold drink and listen to a DJ wheel out his ambient chill-out mix as the sun sets.
MOST READ IN TRAVEL
It’s at this point you realise your brain is running on low-power mode. Any troubles you may have brought with you have been demoted to the background.
It’s true that unless you’re going to chuck yourself into the high-octane world of kite surfing, you might not think there’s a vast amount to do on a holiday to Sal.
But at the end of the day, with the sun disappearing below the horizon and your brain emptying, that’s entirely the point of it.
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