Have an unforgettable week in Sin City… without doing anything naughty
AS I jump in the taxi from the airport, the driver looks seriously at me and asks: “Ganja, girls, guns or gambling – what do you want?”
I am in Las Vegas for none of those things, I assure him.
In fact, I am determined to prove you can have a heady, unforgettable week in Sin City without spending a penny on the blackjack table or slot machines.
So that is what I am doing: Strictly no gambling allowed on this trip. It proves easy. Vegas is one of the world’s ultimate entertainment capitals — capitalism on speed.
First on your list should be to check the dates of the international superstars in residence.
While a residency suggests one might be on stage every night, in fact the biggest names — like Jennifer Lopez, Janet Jackson, Backstreet Boys and Aerosmith — tend to only perform in blocks of a few days at a time.
Over the course of two visits, I had the chance to see Celine Dion and Elton John at the Coliseum in iconic hotel Caesars Palace.But that venue is closing down to be refurbished while Celine takes her first break from Vegas in two decades.
The biggest arena in the intervening period is the Park Theatre at the Park MGM, which was the perfect venue to see Cher strut her stuff at 73.
“What’s your granny doing tonight?” was her best line.
Within the giant complex is a hotel-within-a-hotel called the NoMad, a trendy and urbane experience which has become a hit in Los Angeles and New York already.
I absolutely adored my chic Mad Men-style room with stunning views over Vegas and a turntable that was — in a delightful touch — stocked with LPs from my favourite Vegas singers like Celine and Shania Twain.
Well worth a visit, whether you are staying there or not, is the NoMad restaurant, where I drank one of the best cocktails I have ever had . . . out of a giant golden willy.
The hotel is also now home to a giant Eataly, providing a plethora of Italian eating and drinking options. Perfect for an Aperol Spritz lover like me.
After a very big lunch there, we spent an afternoon at the pool, where there are so many different options and the best cocktails.
The hotels in Vegas are like entertainment complexes in their own right, so I recommend always staying in more than one during your stay.
Halfway through mine, I moved to the glossy, modern Cosmopolitan, where you are likely to find some of the city’s most chic and beautiful visitors at its three huge, high-rise outdoor pools.
It is one of the few hotels in Vegas that offers many rooms with balconies. And it is worth doing a bit of research because mine had the most amazing view of the iconic fountains at the Bellagio Hotel, which are a real feast for the eyes.
To treat yourself, I cannot recommend highly enough a visit to the Sahra Spa’s hammam — one of the biggest in the US, where the red flower treatment left me feeling invigorated to tackle more of the city’s nightlife.
The Cosmopolitan boasts an overwhelming range of eating options, with every budget and cuisine well catered for. If you want a quick all-American bite, you can’t go past the delicious mix of fast-food options at Blok 16.
For something celebratory, Beauty And Essex is one of the trendiest new restaurants in Vegas, set inside a pawn shop with uber-cool waiters and two dining rooms themed after jewellery-boxes.
I went here for the night of my birthday before crossing the road to see J-Lo at Planet Hollywood. It was the perfect way to kick off the celebrations.
China Ponlano combines two of my favourite ethnic food groups — Mexican and Chinese — in a fresh concept by chef Jose Andres. The guacamole is to die for.
For high-end Chinese, Red Plate is one of the best in the world. I have never received service like it and the food, especially the melt-in-the-mouth duck, was second to none.
But probably my favourite was the innovative food and music at the supper club Rose Rabbit Lie, where the quirky tasting menu and excellent cocktails are just the start, given the live music and entertainment on offer.
Then, right next door, is Opium, the hotel’s adults-only futuristic musical. That was a wickedly good laugh and the ideal start to a big night out.
It is worth spending half a day exploring away from the Strip — and Downtown is fast becoming a place to be.
The Container Park features urban restaurants. I loved lunch at the Downtown Terrace Kitchen and Bar. The Neon Museum is also a must, as it features the biggest collection in the world of the famous fluorescent signs from Vegas’ fascinating past.
A guided tour around the grounds provides you with all of that info and ample time to get lots of highly Instagrammable snaps of vintage signs for the likes of the Stardust, Desert Inn and the Golden Nugget.
The Fremont Experience has also reawakened downtown and the city’s legendary old casinos.
There is a great atmosphere until the early hours, with performances, an epic light show and a giant zip wire over all the action.
If you have the time to get away from the Strip, you can take in all the sights of the Grand Canyon with Sundance Helicopters, soaring over the Mojave Desert, Hoover Dam, Colorado River and Lake Mead. It truly was an unforgettable experience.
And it is made even better when you land in the heart of the canyon for a glass of cold champagne and a picnic lunch. Plus lots of time to get snaps that will last a lifetime.
Another once-in-a-lifetime experience is Siegfried and Roy’s Secret Garden And Dolphin Habitat at The Mirage.
You can spend time meeting the dolphins on the edge of their giant enclosure and feed them as they paint you a little work of art.
Afterwards, we dined at the hotel’s Japanese restaurant Otoro, which epitomises old-school class, with stunning food from the Robata Grill and 5H sushi.
And then I went for the second time to LOVE by Cirque de Soleil at the hotel — far and away the greatest acrobatic show in Vegas, set to classic Beatles tunes. It will make your soul soar.
MOST READ IN TRAVEL
Vegas is one of the best places in the world to shop. But for me, the only place I bother going to is the vast Las Vegas North Premium Outlets, where savings of 65 per cent are common.
It is a short drive from the hotels of the Strip and features incredible discounts on 175 of the biggest brands, all in a lovely outdoor setting. Just make sure you leave enough space in your suitcase to bring it all back.
And with all that shopping, eating, drinking and cheering on some of my favourite performers, I didn’t have a chance to think about gambling.
GO: Vegas
GETTING THERE: Flights from London to Las Vegas are from £311pp return with British Airways. See ba.com.
STAYING THERE: The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas is from £84.49pppn, based on two sharing. See . NoMad Las Vegas is from £57.22pppn based on two sharing. See . .
MORE INFO: See .
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