As Marks & Spencer launches the croloaf, Great British Bake Off champ Jo Wheatley rates other hybrid ‘treats’
Do you know your cronut from your duffin?
DO YOU know your cronut from your duffin? Your blondie from your croloaf?
It’s not enough to have one tasty snack these days, it’s better to have two mashed together.
And the craze for hybrid baked goods shows no sign of stopping.
Now the bakery buffs at Marks and Spencer have invented a new kind of bread - the croloaf.
This Frankenstein creation is a far cry from your bog standard sliced white - it is a loaf of bread made in the style of a croissant.
Sadia Usman, M&S bakery expert, said: “Our croissant loaf is perfect for those who like the convenience of grabbing a slice of toast for breakfast but love the delicious buttery taste of croissants.
“Now they don’t have to compromise and can enjoy the best of both.”
The popularity of cross-breed baked goods began with treats like the ‘cronut’ - a cross between a croissant and a doughnut which was invented by New York City pastry chef Dominique Ansel in 2013.
Ansel’s London bakery opened near Victoria station last month. It still has punters queuing up at eight in the morning every day in the hope of getting their hands on the iconic cronut.
So is the new croloaf the best thing since sliced bread - and is it about to give the cronut a run for its money?
We asked former Great British Bake Off winner Jo Wheatley to channel her inner Paul Hollywood by rating the best hybrid goodies on the market.
Duffin
£2.50, Bea’s of Bloomsbury,
A Frankenstein-style creation, combining a doughnut and a muffin.
Jo says: “The duffin has a real savoury aftertaste which I can’t place.
“It almost tastes like it’s been mixed in the same bowl as an anchovy – which is probably not what most people look for in their cakes.
“For me, this does not work. It has a really close texture, unlike a cake.
“In fact, I think it’s more like a cleaning sponge.”
SUN RATING: 0
Blondie
£2.60, Bea’s of Bloomsbury,
An amalgamation of white chocolate and brownies.
Jo says: “This is a brick, it was really solid when I tapped on it.
“It has the texture of a brownie but I don’t think the white chocolate element works.
“It’s too sweet. I would really struggle to eat a quarter, let alone a whole one.
“If you’re going to have this many calories in one go, you want it to taste amazing.”
SUN RATING: 🎂
Cronut
£4, Dominique Ansel Bakery,
The original hybrid – a cross between a croissant and a doughnut.
Jo says: “I’m really impressed with how delicate and pretty this is but sadly, it didn’t taste great. The centre was fine but the rest was too rubbery.
“I like the idea of a croissant and a doughnut crossover but I’m astounded by how sugary it is.
“A croissant is a treat. To deep-fat fry it is too much. I certainly wouldn’t queue from 7am, like its fans do.”
SUN RATING: 🎂🎂🎂
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Cookie shot
£4, Dominique Ansel Bakery,
A chocolate cookie shaped like a shot glass filled with milk, from the creator of the iconic cronut.
Jo says: “These cookie shots look really fun, I love the concept.
“I think kids would really like these, I know my grandkids would.
“I was a little put off by the idea of the milk shot at first but the creator has flavoured the milk with vanilla, so it is actually lovely and sweet.
“The cookie is nice and it all balances well.”
SUN RATING: 🎂🎂🎂🎂
Croloaf
£2.40, Marks & Spencer,
A cross between a croissant and a loaf of bread.
Jo says: “This is really well thought out. They have baked it in a bread tin but placed some mini croissants on top to give it croissant-style layers.
“It would taste great sliced and toasted, maybe with some jam or marmalade.
“I like the fact you can just have a slice or two if you don’t fancy the whole thing.
“I would happily serve this at brunch for my family.”
SUN RATING: 🎂🎂🎂🎂
Pretzel roll
£3.50, Waitrose,
A crossbreed of a pretzel and a bun, can be used in place of a bread roll in sandwiches and burgers.
Jo says: “As a mass-produced roll, this is brilliant. If I grabbed this for lunch on the go, I would be really satisfied.
“I worried that the roll would be too salty because of the pretzel element, but it’s been toned down.
“The bread has a good texture, too, it’s not too firm.”
SUN RATING: 🎂🎂🎂🎂🎂
