Andalusia…? Saddle do nicely
FOR decades Brits heading towards the Spanish sun have hurried right through Malaga in a rush to start their holidays.
My trip was no different — but instead of making for the beaches I was travelling north to the mountains that form the backdrop to the Costas. They are far more interesting and chilled out.
And at Cortijo La Presa, a mountain resort 2,500ft above sea level, I found a spot close to heaven.
It looks more like a monastery than a holiday home but is the ideal place for a sunshine break.
The former farmhouse has been converted into seven ensuite apartments arranged around a sun-trap of a courtyard with a pool and kids’ play area.
It is super-cosy and there are even log fires if the chill of the mountains starts to make itself known.
Set amid stunning scenery, it is aimed at individuals or groups of hikers, cyclists and yoga enthusiasts, with opportunity for lounging between activities.
It is also a working olive farm with a couple of friendly dogs. And a goat, Divina, who you can take for a walk.
On the first day, our group tried mountain biking and found that the scope for off-road pedalling is infinite.
As there are no trespass laws in Spain you can go anywhere. The owners have a fleet of new Orbea bikes and built cycling trails on their 40 acres that loop off into the glories of the Sierras Subbeticas Natural Park beyond.
After a bit of tuition, bike guru Jonathan Smith, one of the co-owners, led us through the olive groves.
Mostly we ambled along the flat trails at family friendly speeds accompanied by birdsong and smell of wild rosemary.
Afterwards we had a relaxing half-hour of yoga with teacher Claire Barron.
The nearest nightlife is 20 minutes away at Priego de Cordoba, recently voted prettiest town in Andalusia and third in Spain. It is fully deserved.
The old town is full of splendid baroque mansions, churches and fountains. Chief of these is Neptune’s fountain, an elaborate ensemble of three connecting pools lined with gargoyles and 139 water spouts dominated by the god on his chariot.
A wander through the narrow streets around the Moorish castle led us to a stunning cliff-edge viewpoint. Syrah restaurant served excellent tapas with a modern twist for £9 a head, including booze.
The next day we got back on the bikes — but the cycling was only for the brave as we skidded and bumped along tracks which had been turned to slush by overnight rain.
A longer ride takes you to the nearest small town, Iznajar, a mini-Gibraltar perched on a cliff overlooking the largest lake in Andalusia.
Don’t miss the views from the impressive eighth-century Arab castle.
Another 30 minutes by car is Antequera, many people’s favourite Andalusian town, and the wonderful limestone rock formations at El Torcal.
Further afield, an hour’s drive from the Cortijo, are the spectacular sights at Cordoba and Granada.
To round off our stay, 12 of us sat down to a lavish Sunday lunch, the last of several excellent Spanish meals prepared by the Cortijo’s excellent, friendly housekeepers, Carmen and Antonio.
My three-night stay was enough to leave the cares of home behind but left me wishing I’d had a week at least.
There was so much I hadn’t got round to doing, such as climbing the province’s highest peak, La Tinosa, and taking the goat for a walk.
Next time, Divina, I promise.
GO: ANDALUSIA
GETTING THERE: BA and easyJet fly to Malaga.
STAYING THERE: Cortijo La Presa has two-bed apartments from around £435 a week. All seven apartments, sleeping up to 26, can be hired for £2,375 for the week.
MOUNTAIN BIKE HIRE: £9.50 per half-day or £12 for a full day (£4 for kids’ bikes) Guided bike tours from £23.75 per person.
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