I know why big fashion brands will never embrace bigger bodies & how Next’s banned ad fell into the trap
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LAST week I wrote a heartfelt piece about the state of the fashion industry, pointing out how, at a size 14 woman, I felt more like an XL.
So imagine my face this week when I read that the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has banned an advert used by Next due to the model’s pose and the camera angle giving the impression she was “unhealthily thin”.
The image in question shows a model wearing a pair of skin-tight denim leggings, with the ASA branding the image “irresponsible”.
As a stylist myself, my work making national headlines for all the wrong reasons would be my worst nightmare.
For Next, this is not a good look.
The retail giant has hit back and defended the image, saying the model had a “healthy and toned physique”.
While I am glad that the ASA is taking the issue seriously and making a statement by banning the image, I don’t think this incident is as straightforward as some might think.
For one, there are multiple other brands out there that use ultra-skinny models on their websites.
And no-one has pulled them up on it.
Take a look at the ‘new in’ section on Zara’s site, where in one image shows a model awkwardly crouching on a kitchen hob. Not only does she appear uncomfortable, she also looks painfully thin.
Mango is another brand which uses models that could also be described as “unhealthily skinny”.
So where do we draw the line? And why, in 2025 – when the body positivity movement has supposedly been embraced by big-name fashion brands – are we still having this conversation?
The answer is simple: despite evidence to the contrary, many businesses still believe that skinny sells.
And I understand the logic. Hands up if you’ve ever bought something that looks great online, only to be left bitterly disappointed with how it looks on your own body.
So why aren’t big brands embracing more realistic body sizes?
A study from the University of Bath released last year revealed that using more size-inclusive models would not only improve sales, but that customers would feel a greater sense of satisfaction, with returns of clothes also dropping.
This would also be better for the environment and a win-win for everyone.
The research showed that overly-thin models actually hindered online purchase decisions, with customers finding it difficult to assess if products would actually fit them.
I hope the recent furore over Next’s choice of model has called attention to a wider problem across the fashion industry and that other brands will take note when photographing products in the future.
The answer is simple: despite evidence to the contrary, many businesses still believe that skinny sells.
A large part of the problem with this particular image – and why it has been banned – is the angle.
The way the 5ft 9in model’s leg is bent is a key factor.
Responding to the ASA, Next said the pose was selected “specifically to display the leggings’ fit on both straight and bent legs”, and that the image – taken nearly two years ago – was created with a “strong sense of responsibility”.
It’s true that body angles play a key part in photos.
Just look at the many ways in which influencers and celebrities pose and angle their bodies when sharing content online in a bid to look slimmer.
It is also interesting that this is the only image of this particular model to be banned, with others still remaining on site.
That tells me it really could be down to the positioning of her body and the fact she is wearing something so tight-fitting.
It also should be pointed out that while Next does have skinny-looking models on its site, it also uses models of other sizes, including plus size.
It’s a thorny topic that’s tricky to navigate, as there’s a fine line between bashing brands for using ultra-slim models and being ‘skinny-phobic’, which would also be problematic.
Just think about how the model in question must feel about the implication she is “unhealthily thin”.
'WRONG MESSAGE'
And while brands are being caught out for models looking ‘too skinny’, would anyone dare say a plus-size model looks unhealthy and portrays the wrong message?
You would immediately be seen as not being on board with the body positivity movement.
At the end of the day it all comes down to balance.
Brands need to represent as many different body shapes and sizes as they can, which isn’t the easiest of tasks.
But by using as wide a range of models as possible, then hopefully everyone can feel included.
Only time will tell whether this will ever happen. Sadly, I’m not too hopeful.
There’s a fine line between bashing brands for using ultra-slim models and being ‘skinny-phobic’, which would also be problematic
Fashion week is upon us in London next week, an event which high street brands like Next look to for inspiration – both for new designs and maybe even the models who wear them.
After last season, it was revealed that a pitiful 0.8 per cent of LFW runway models were plus-size. It will be interesting to see if anything has changed this time around.
Jutting hips, protruding collar bones and thigh gaps are nothing new in the world of fashion, but perhaps the ASA’s ban is a small step in the right direction.
Hottest fashion trends of 2025
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Fabulous' Fashion Editor Clemmie Fieldsend has shared the biggest trends from the high street.
The East/West Bag
Baguette bags have had a good run, after returning from the 90s shoulders of Sarah Jessica Parker to modern fashion icons like Hailey Bieber.
In 2025, the East/West bag is a similar but elongated shape and has long, thin straps that are easy to throw over your shoulders.
They’ve been on runway models' arms at nearly ever designer's shows - think Burberry, Givenchy and Bottega Veneta - and are hitting the high street now, too.
Powder pink
Bright fuchsia pink had its day after the release of the Barbie film in 2023 and didn’t appear last year - and now the more polished and expensive looking pale shade is taking over for 2025.
Pantone may say that it's the year of Mocha Mousse, but the catwalks say otherwise! From Prada to Erdem, the subtle look was all over the spring/summer catwalks, worn head-to-toe or on its own.
If the sugary shade is too girly for you, then look to sharp suiting for a androgynous take on the colour.
The shell jacket
The 80s classic is back, but with a sleek and minimal new twist for 2025.
We all know that for most of spring we’re likely to see rain, and your practical coat of choice should be a cagoule jacket.
Depop revealed one of its big trend predictions for this year is retro sportswear, with surges already seen in ‘80s windbreakers’.
Seen everywhere from the stylish streets of Copenhagen to the Miu Miu catwalk, now mums who have an emergency raincoat crumpled underneath their pushchair are very much in fashion!
The turn-up jeans
Whilst jeans shape remains the same for this year and barrel-legs are still going to be seen everywhere, the way we’re styling them is different.
This season, transform your wide-leg, baggy denims into turn-ups.
And for this look, size doesn’t matter, so while deep turn-ups are a hit from jean trend-leaders Citizens of Humanity, a slight fold is still just as good - but only as it's just one single fold.
Peep-toe shoe
Get your pedicures booked in sharpish, as this season your toes are the main event.
After a long hiatus, the peep-toe has been welcomed back into the fashion fold, with brands like Hermes, Miu Miu and Tory Burch showing plain and embellished footwear all with the tiny hole.
From mules to pumps and clogs (yes clogs will be around too!), there are lots of different styles that are set to sweep the high street, but they will all have peep-toe.
Sheer blouses
See-through looks have always lived on the catwalk, but have rarely filtered into everyday life - until now.
Designers Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford loved sheer looks on their SS25 catwalks and M&S even had sellout success with its black sheer pencil skirt last season.
Expect to see more sheer looks lining supermarket aisles and high street shops in the form of skirts, tops and frocks.