The British island with stunning sandy beaches, seals & Victorian heritage railways
EMERGING from the Irish Sea, invigorated by my morning swim, I’m welcomed into a cosy, wood-fired sauna overlooking the sands at Laxey, £10 for 30 minutes (Greencreek.im).
I’m on the east coast of the Isle of Man and it’s safe to say I’m already falling for this self-governing island, which sits just a three-hour ferry ride from Heysham in Lancashire.
Making tracks
After savouring a Victoria sponge laden with cream from the bountiful local cows at Laxey Beach Stop Cafe, I hop aboard the scenic Manx Electric Railway – one of four heritage Victorian railways.
Wild goats idle next to the track, while in the distance are soaring cliffs and a lighthouse blinking out towards Scotland.
It’s a brilliant way to appreciate the landscape and feel like you’re also travelling back in time.
Return tickets cost £13 ().
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At the terminus in Ramsey, The Fynoderee Distillery awaits by the platform, with artisanal gin, rum, vodka, whisky and a warm Manx welcome.
I sip a free taster of the signature Manx Dry Gin RNLI Edition, then grab a bottle to take home, £42 ().
COAST WITH THE MOST
I’m staying at the Comis Hotel & Golf Resort in the rolling Manx countryside.
Rooms have country-chic decor and there’s a spa with a pool, saunas, Jacuzzis and steam rooms.
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The Isle of Man has dozens of beaches, and the two-mile stretch of sand in elegant capital Douglas is just 10 minutes’ drive away.
After a coastal stroll and a quick snap of the Bee Gees statue – the Gibb brothers were born here – I learn more about the island’s Celtic and Viking history at the superb Manx Museum.
There’s an eclectic art collection and a floor dedicated to the annual Isle of Man TT motorcycle race. Museum entry is free ().
The Gaiety Theatre, which hosts movies, talks, gigs and tours of the historic building, is nearby and also worth a visit ().
At family-run restaurant 14North on Douglas’ North Quay waterfront, I tuck into boat-fresh king scallops with bacon and brown butter and delicious gamey Manx Loaghtan lamb.
Main courses cost from £19 ().
Afterwards, I pop into beach-holiday-themed cocktail bar Kiki Lounge for a daiquiri, £11, made with local Hoolie Manx white rum ().
I spend my final afternoon here hiking The Way of the Gull coastal path, before I’m lucky enough to see dolphins leaping past the hulking Peel Castle.
Sadly, I’m too late to explore this dramatic fortress, entry £11 for adults ().
Instead, I relax on the sandy beach, trying to spot seals.
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As night draws in, the island’s famous Dark Skies sparkle and I see a shooting star.
It may not be the Northern Lights, which can occasionally be spied here, but it’s just as magical.
FYI
Doubles at Comis Hotel & Golf Resort cost from £107 B&B ().
A return ferry costs from £185 per car ().
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